When we began to get involved in pure bred dogs we realized that everyone had an opinion and they weren’t shy about speaking out about it. Suddenly you couldn’t go anyplace with your pure bred dog without some ‘expert’ chatting you up about their thoughts on your dog.
Some people had to tell you the ‘correct way to train’, some simply told you about your breed as if they invented it, some had warnings about your breed, and some had unkind words about your breeder. The most interesting spoken opinions to me were other owners of my breed simply blurting out their conformation opinions of my dog.
There are several types falling into this category. The most blatant walk up to you and begin their critique, criticisms right off the bat…usually without even a proper introduction or a smile. Maybe you are in a class and they assume since they have your breed and do not know who you are that you must need their opinion. They are usually highly critical of every detail. Usually these types have on the end of their own lead what to them is the perfect example of the breed. Other type silently evaluate your dog from a distance and once you turn your back their diarrhea mouths are off and running fast and furiously trashing the dog, you and your dogs breeder. Some are combinations of these and some are even so obnoxious and forward they grab your dog and pry open its mouth to inspect the bite without so much as a request to check. Yes, this did happen to me.
One thing they all have in common is ego. These people are oblivious that their actions are neither requested nor warranted. They are rude. You haven’t paid for their opinions. You aren’t entered into a conformation show under them to judge your dog and offer their opinions. These people don’t even care if the dog in question was sold as a show dog or if it was sold as a sports dog – to them they feel strongly that you must hear their opinion and value it.
These people are somehow finding self worth in everything they can offer the purebreed dog world in their ‘usually incorrect’ opinions and rarely are they experts at much. Rarely are they involved in much beyond breeding or bragging. They seem to have much to say about nothing.
Any of this sounding familiar to you? If you own a purebred dog I’m guessing it has happened to you too.
When it has happened to me, and when I hear about it happening to my puppy buyers I usually respond with consider the source. Let it go. Reply with a polite ‘thank you for offering your unrequested opinion on my dog’ and move on.
There is a disturbing trend happening in the dog world. It’s not the first time this happened but it seems to be the first time it has so directly involved this breed. Trends are never a healthy thing in purebred dogs. This has taken its toll on me personally.
Some unethical and selfish people are breeding Staffords for specific purposes other than the intended purposes of this wonderful versatile breed – such as below standard smaller size, super extreme high drive & excessive tenacity, specific color and pattern or other non standard traits which will bring in more puppy sales for them. This is my blog so I am perfectly comfortable calling things as I see them. I especially feel okay since I also see the other side of this in my work with Stafford rescue.
We now have people breeding something called the ‘Miniature Staffordshire Bull Terrier’ to which my response is get yourself another breed. Dwarfism isn’t a healthy trait and joint, structure, health issues will occur when you begin selecting your breeding partners for smaller and smaller sizes. You don’t believe me? Ever go to a ‘Bully Fest”? Google American Bully and have yourself a look. Like what you see? Do you want to see Staffords heading down this road too? What do you think the life span is of these animals? Think there is any pain involved? Think they can reproduce naturally? What about spinal injury occurrences? I am perfectly fine naming and shaming if you call me and ask me for names of ‘breeders’ doing this. I personally know people who own some extra tiny below standard Staffords. They will tell you all about the heartbreak of injuries and health concerns. You cant make this stuff up.
So called ‘sport breeders’ are producing Staffords with such extreme drive and energy that nobody can live with these dogs on a daily basis. There is no off switch. They want dogs to compete and win at sports. Thats it. Nothing to do with a breed standard or health testing – just fast, small, drivey. Have you ever wondered what happens to all the puppies from these ‘sport bred’ litters who dont make the cut? The ones who either don’t excel at the intended sport or those sold to families instead of being put to work daily? Let me tell you. They end up being re-homed either to rescue (Hi thats me) or sold from home to home to home on Craigslist, etc. or being dumped at the pound to die. Now lets discuss the ones they do keep to do their chosen sport – they are worked from week one. They teach them to tug, run, grab, go go go go go – always on. They are worked before growth plates have closed – they are worked hard and often beyond injury and fatigue. These are not pets. These are means to a goal for owners. These ‘breeders’ and owners are only after one thing. Personal attention – “look at me – my dog is number one – look what my dog can do – doesn’t that make me terrific?!” Then after they begin to not win guess what happens then. They are either ‘retired’ meaning sold or given away, dumped with rescue (hi again) left alone in crates and kennel runs or used for breeding purposes only. This issue isn’t isolated to sport folks either – lots of conformation people are exactly the same but thats another blog post for another day…..
Then we have those who are not involved in the mainstream breed ‘family’ at all and they buy Staffords specifically to breed because they supplement their income with these dogs. Some are honest about it advertising on Next Day Pets and the like. Others lie to themselves and say they are breeders of champions therefore its all legit. These ‘breeders’, if not also breeding for the above traits, only breed for the popular colors or patterns in order to make their puppies more desired by the masses of the ignorant public. You may see blue to blue (no health testing at all just chosen for dilute), you may see black and tan or tri color bred purposely (a disqualification in the breed), you may see a combination of those as blue and tan and in fact you also may see merle which doesn’t even exist in this breed therefore you know for a fact they are not purebred.
Some don’t breed for these traits at all but they call themselves ‘show breeders’ but when you look at their dogs you may wonder what breed it is. I do not consider these people breeders – to me that just making puppies. Like in a factory or on a farm. Their dogs represent cash not family. Their dogs may be studded out at very young ages with no testing done, they may always have a litter available, they may take non refundable deposits, they may have paypal buttons on their websites, they may also say ‘health tested’ but somehow cant come up with proof. They may brag about the show or sport wins before they ask you about what kind of home will this puppy grow up in or before they get to know you because in reality – they don’t care. They wont remain in touch with you beyond the sale unless your contract states you have to breed your Stafford and give them puppies back. See a theme here?
And another thing – bear with me please – I came into this breed with a pet quality Stafford I purchased as a pet but allowed the breeder to make me show her. Thankfully I had the sense not to breed from her and she was soon spayed. My second Stafford was slightly better quality. I had learned a little more about the breed standard at this point. I had great success with this dog even though I knew he had many faults. I often wondered what the judges were thinking when they praised his more extreme qualities rather than his overall balance and fitness. I wrote about this in a very early blog here. Then I continued with a 3rd Stafford who in herself wasn’t a fantastic bitch in some ways but in other ways was quality. I began to understand the importance of fully health testing my dogs and publishing results, good or bad. I began to test my Staffords in performance and conformation. I bred my bitch understanding I would be lucky to get 1 show quality pup in a full litter – unlike so many others around me who sent full litters out with handlers to champion them all and in turn breed mediocre or faulty Staffords. I continued along on a slow path choosing what I wanted and where I wanted to go and understood more and more as I went along where my mistakes were made and where my good decisions fell closer to the path I sought. I made good connections within the dog community and I contributed back as I took from it. We returned from our first time at the PSBTC shows glowing with excitement from all we had learned. Lightbulbs had turned on. Wow was there so much to learn about this breed! We had been fooled into thinking what we saw and what we read were unrelated! Once we saw good examples of the breed we immediately understood so many things. We were met with a fellow exhibitor saying (as he rolled his eyes) “ut oh Lynnie and Jim have gone to the dark side”. This man is an AKC judge now.
All along, my frustrations grew – not only with the topics in this very long blog (time for you to take some B-12 if you want to keep up). I grew frustrated with watching handlers showing mediocre Staffords and winning anyway, therefore justifying the wins with – this is how I make a paycheck, or don’t have sour grapes…now sometimes a handler was showing fantastic examples in my mind and even they couldn’t be found in the ring – now that was even more frustrating to me. I was secretly pulling for those dogs to excel to justify what I was learning. How could a judge not see these dogs as being so close to our standard? Why is it that only other Stafford breeder judges found them?
Now of course I understand that I am not the police of the breed and I have zero control over what these folks do….it’s really none of my business – society will sort itself out eventually – but my concern mainly is to educate my readers so they understand that people who breed for these traits do not have these wonderful dogs in mind – only either selfish goals, ego or money. How does that affect me you may wonder? Why this lengthy blog post? Still reading? Two reasons – first – the cast offs come to rescue and now they become my problem. I clean up the mess these people are creating. (loads of conformation breeders are a part of this problem also, its not isolated to the above described people) It now becomes my expense and burden to find great homes for these dogs. These dogs are not perfect. They come with all kinds of structural, health or behavioral problems that now others must deal with. I’m burned out with exhaustion over this to be quite honest.
Let me vent a minute longer if you are still reading. I receive rescue requests daily. Most people will first tell me they just want to adopt a Stafford in need. However, a little more conversation and I get this – in reality they just do not wish to pay for a well bred health tested puppy b/c either they aren’t ideal themselves and have been turned down repeatedly by good breeders, they are too cheap to pay for a quality purebred Stafford or they are never going to be satisfied with any rescue or re-home I find for them. Seriously. Some people are so picky about wanting the absolute perfect pet. Hey people – why the hell do you think this dog is in need of a new home anyway?! It has issues and we need homes to help them work through them, or a health issue and we need a home willing to care for a special needs dog, or its old or it is dog aggressive or its never been trained to do anything at all! This isn’t Macy’s ffs.
Now I know not everyone wanting a rescue or re-home is like this. I know. Stop rolling your eyes at me. But you really wouldn’t believe the daily messages I get. I have to remain polite and helpful and do my best to match dogs with homes or politely turn them away. I have rehomed many many Staffords into fantastic loving well meaning homes over the years. Honestly I have. I also remain in touch with most of them the same way I do with my puppy buyers.
We are the custodians of the breed. It is our responsibility to make sure the breed, as it is described in our breed standards, are preserved as such for generations beyond our lives to enjoy as they were meant to be. The Stafford was one of the healthiest of the terriers living well beyond the years of most dogs of its size and structure. There was a study on this conducted in the late 90’s by University of Texas. The Stafford temperament was one of a stable and reliable dog. You get a Stafford and you know what to expect. Some tenacity, some prey drive, loads of enthusiasm and willingness to please – but – also an off duty quietness. Important.
Secondly it is extremely disturbing to see some of these ‘sport breeders’ doing anything they can to steal the joy from those before them who come to the start line with in standard, health tested, well planned, trained and healthy Staffords and bring a steroid injected, dehydrated, sport bred, crazy, unstable animal and say – now we beat you and we win and you lose. Nope. Sorry. We all lose. You lose. I lose. The breed loses. You can talk all you want about how your dogs are beating my dogs at a sport – it washes off my back and makes you look like a very sad, lonely person who cares more about the brags than the dogs on your leashes (and shock collars). Just look at your dogs faces. Do they have that sparkle in their eye that my dogs have? No. They look defeated because after they run, after they jump, after they walk in a left hand circle over and over and over again – they are shoved back into a crate in the van while you go off to do your thing. They don’t get that love my dogs get. I can see it in their eyes. And when they do not win – oh boy – that makes me so sad. I see you jerk them by the collar, I hear you curse at them.
And with this – I say – you cannot steal my joy. You are really trying to. You have a times been soooo close to doing so. You cannot affect the joy my dogs feel from me. My dogs are not my life because they have excelled at sports and in the conformation ring – they are my joy because I live with these fantastic wonderful animals every single day – spending my time with them no matter what. They are my companions. They are my family. I am proud of the achievements we have accomplished together. I look at them and get goosebumps. They don’t have to be doing a damned thing. But even without any of these top awards – and trust me if you follow me at all you know there have been numerous firsts and top spots in the breed made by my dogs – (see, there I bragged a bit) these dogs are my love, my life, my reason to smile.
I do not wish to stick around long enough to watch what is happening to this breed by those who are not passionate about them like I am. You may see us sometimes at events if we feel like attending or seeing old friends or having a day of fun, attending the occasional specialty show, breeding a litter now and then . . . . but we are pretty much finished with the non stop weekend dog events. We spent almost 15 years living 24/7 for the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. We have probably done more for this breed than most of the people in the breed in so many ways. (its not a brag if its the truth is it?) We have raised and donated 1000’s and 1000’s of dollars and worked many 1000’s of hours for clubs, rescue, BLS, committees, shows, graphics/photography, online stores, auctions, sponsorship, advertisements – we have created many outlets for education about this breed through the non profit work of The Stafford Knot, sales from Thankdog – All Breeds Equal and this website. I feel pretty good about all we have contributed.
A year from now most people may not even know who we are and thats ok too. We will be here at home with our Staffords and know that we did a great job. We helped do our part to preserve this unbelievable breed. We didn’t cheat. We didn’t boast (much). We didn’t allow our dogs to represent our self worth. We enjoyed our dogs and will continue to do so. Its now time to relax, enjoy life. And with that…….we retire. We go out on top in our eyes.
Breeders have many goals when they begin their journey with their chosen breed. For us our goal is to always promote what we felt was the perfect Staffordshire Bull Terrier for US – we don’t place personal value on the success or failures in a show ring but rather we appreciate each experience for what it is. For some breeders or owners who show their dogs a ribbon and a brag is all it means to them. They center their own personal self worth on the opinions of others. That’s never been the case for us. Showing and performing with our Staffords is something we do for the enjoyment and experience alone.
We wanted to be able to show our own home bred dogs at several big venues – attending parent club National Specialty shows, Eukanuba National Dog show, Westminster KC, UK CH shows and Crufts! We can now say we have done all of that! Bucket list dreams can be check off!
We recently returned from showing Marina at Crufts in Birmingham England where she was entered in the Open bitch class. There were 33 bitches in her class. Many of them were UK Champions and almost all were well worthy of being considered top in the breed. It is our opinion that even the worst Staffords in the rings on that green carpet were far closer to our breed standard than most of the top Staffords in the USA. Looking around at the 100’s of Staffords qualified and entered that day it was difficult to fault the majority of them, especially in fitness and temperament.
Proudly, Marina held her own. She looked like she belonged…and she did belong. Marina has qualified at all but one qualifying show she was entered in here at home. This is possibly a record as the most Crufts qualified American bred Stafford. If nothing else this shows consistency. In fact, we have bred four Staffords who have qualified for Crufts at least once. We don’t regard this achievement as a personal measure of self worth, but rather as a measure of success in meeting the goals we set for ourselves when we decided to breed Staffords. In this respect we have done all that we set out to accomplish. If we stop today, we feel we have been a success.
Marina enjoyed the time on the green carpet immensely, “boofing” and carrying on, wagging and posing for all ringside. She was a crowd favorite for sure. Our bitch judge on the day was Paul Stanway and he was an excellent judge. We felt we got our moneys worth for sure. He did write down her number which is a good sign, but we did not place. That’s totally fine with us considering the high standards he was faced with selecting from. The bitches who did place were well worthy! Below are some photos from the day….one which we will never forget.
Photo by Linda McCullochPhoto by Olga KruglovaPhoto by Olga Kruglova
When filling out applications or interviewing for a Stafford puppy do not be surprised if breeders may ask you a LOT of questions which you may find a bit personal. Please keep in mind that they are asking these questions to make sure the puppy they sell to you is going to be living in the best situation possible for its entire life.
They may ask you questions about your home owners insurance or your home owners association or local legislation pertaining to dogs. Too often we find that breeders did not find out until after a dog is in a new home and perhaps has gotten itself in trouble that there are breed specific ordinances or outright bans directed at Staffordshire Bull Terriers.
Be willing to answer the questions honestly, and also prepare questions for the breeder. The more open and honest the communication before the sale the better for everyone involved.
We get emails all the time from people all over and one of the first things we ask is where do you live and will the new puppy be living at this residence with you full time. If you travel to another location and your Stafford will be joining you, we need to know this as well. All too often we get Staffords back into rescue due to either breeders not asking about these things or excited new owners afraid to tell all and later its discovered that Staffords are not allowed. Remember, if they do not allow ‘pit bulls’ then chances are high Staffords are also not allowed no matter how many times you show them AKC paperwork proving they are Staffordshire Bull Terriers.
If you find yourself in a similar situation, or ever have any issues with your Stafford, please always contact your breeder. Most breeders want to help and be involved. They will be more likely to help guide you and find the needed resources to assist. If your breeder can’t, or won’t help you then contact the breed parent club through the AKC or a local or regional club may also be a good resource.
However, please save everyone heartache and headache and if you cannot legally own a Stafford please get another breed or move to a place you can. Research the breed you want and do your homework first.
There have been many articles on information good breeders suggest for post whelp health for the newborns and dam. Do a search for breeding on The Stafford Knot website in the Library section and you will find several interesting articles submitted by breeders from around the world. I wont go into too many details but I will offer a little informational list of must haves based upon our experiences.
Make sure you have calcium citrate on hand. Its fine to use the convenient tubes but after whelping get yourself a bottle of the higher quality capsules 1000. Also, a B-Complex and DLPA 750. I would also suggest buying a homeopathic kit made for birthing and one for emergency care. Read the books that come with each ahead of time so you are partially familiar with the contents.
Go to the suggested reading list on this page and pick up several good books on whelping/breeding – especially Book of the Bitch and one on newborn care. Sign yourself up for Puppy Culture and pre-watch at least the 1st few videos if not the entire course. Keep pedialyte, lactated ringers solution with both adult and newborn set-ups, colloidal silver 500, tube feeding sets, oxygen, fresh frozen plasma, liver water, whole milk yogurt, fresh raw goat milk, fresh eggs (yolks), a big green cabbage and local raw honey. Do not use cottage cheese thinking you are feeding calcium – go read the package and you will be surprised. Yogurt is a much better choice plus its full of probiotics. Get full fat grass fed sourced.
Get two working thermometers, new batteries for flashlights, thermometer, scales and anything else which requires batteries. Buy a USB laptop red LED light – comes in handy for overnight checks in whelping box. We have USB outlets in our wall outlets and there is one right behind our whelping box where I keep one of these plugged in.
Set up a warming box or drawer. I have both – the box for when/if I have to leave the house to go to the vet – the drawer is the top drawer in a dresser I use for weighing and keeping my charts updated.
Get your essential oils and diffuser, Thieves wash/wipes/cleaner/sanitizer/soaps, etc….put all your vets on speed dial and visit an emergency clinic to pre-fill out forms in case you need to rush there in the middle of the night……on a Saturday/Sunday night…..when your bitch has a temperature of 103.6 and mastitis is setting in – get your Thundershirt out as its perfect for holding that cold cabbage on her teats for a couple hours alternating with warm compresses (a sock filled with rice works well for this heated in microwave or a hot water bottle is also perfect )- you want moist heat to expel milk once her teat is soft – alternating back and forth…..checking for both color and smell to make sure her milk is safe for the babies to nurse from.
Learn how to use lactated ringers to administer fluids. This is very important. Dehydration in both newborn puppies or in the dam can be serious and life threatening. Keep them hydrated!
Buy whatever laundry soap you plan to use in bulk – we use Young Living Thieves and white vinegar for softening. Wash and change whelping box bedding often! Clean the box several times a day with your Thieves spray and a clean cloth like a diaper. Its very important to keep everything clean.
We check temperatures, weights, poop and pee daily – these are simple ways to make sure the health is spot on for your bitch and her whelps. rotate the teats your pups suckle from in smaller litters. Watch for any redness, dark spots, swelling or hardness – watch for this several times per day – mastitis can come on very quickly and its best caught very early. Remember broad spectrum antibiotics can still pass onto puppies through the milk and also can cause nausea. If you can use homeopathics instead and get success try them first.
I’m certain this is not all encompassing information but its just a sleep deprived stream of thought blog entry which I hope has offered someone a little information they didn’t already have in their arsenal. I am not a veterinarian nor am I attempting to replace their advice – I am just offering up info based upon our own experiences – take it or leave it but always seek the advise of medically trained professionals if in doubt.
Below is a list of homeopathic remedies for treating Mastitis
Apis Mellifica… This is a great remedy for painful and swollen glands. This is particularly common after whelping.
Bryonia Alba 30c… is highly beneficial for glands that have become hard. Other symptoms may include the legs being stiff and signs of constipation.
Belladonna 30c… may be prescribed by homeopathic vets for treating hot and swollen glands. The affected dog may also be restless and excited.
Hepar Sulphuris Calcareum 30c… can be used to treat glands that have become painful. There may also be a pussy discharge too.
Phytolacca 6c… may be beneficial for treating painful and hard lumps in the dog’s breast glands. The affected dog may appear listless and the glands may appear blue in color.
Urtica Urens 1 m… can be prescribed by homeopathic vets to help restore milk production as the infection starts to subside.
Therapeutic grade essential oils are an excellent natural support system for both new puppies and your bitch. Here are a few oils we have used.
Stress Away : This was invaluable to calm any anxiety, both for mama and breeder. Stress Away is a blend of Copaiba, Lime, Cedarwood, Ocatea, Lavender and Vanilla, which is not an essential oil but an essence. Just a swipe to the back of the neck and inside the wrists did the trick for humans and a drop or so in diffuser for the bitch.
Joy: This was diffused throughout pregnancy and beyond, as well as a drop over the heart. A wonderful blend that not only promotes bonding, but love and an open heart as well. Contained in this blend is Bergamot, Ylang Ylang, Geranium, Rosewood, Lemon, Mandarin, Jasmine, Roman Chamomile, Palmarosa, and Rose.
Helichrysum: This single oil was invaluable on the cesarean section incision to heal tissue trauma and stop minor bleeding. A few drops directly on the incision from day one not only expedited healing but also relieved pain. You can continue with this for a week if needed.
Frankincense: I placed a drop in the palm of my hand and rubbed this on my newborn puppies feet within hours of birth as an immunity booster. This oil affects emotional balance, the immune system, the nervous system and the skin. This oil can also be used on the incision if cesarean is needed for healing.
Lavender: Well known for its anti-inflammatory properties, again can be used on incision if cesarean is needed.
Peppermint: If the bitch is vomiting a drop or two of this in diffuser can alleviate the nausea.
Cistus: Helps to contract and strengthen the uterus. This works well regardless of method of delivery. Apply 1 to 2 drops on the lower abdomen once per day for 5-10 days after delivery.
Myrrh: This can be applied directly on the puppies umbilical cords, just a drop, for about 3-4 days to promote healing.
Deep Relief: Often during a C-section the body reacts to the anesthesia by shaking uncontrollably, which can be a common side effect. Anyone that has experienced this knows the toll that it can take on your muscles. Deep Relief is a roll on blend containing Peppermint, Lemon, Idaho Balsam Fir, Clove, Copaiba, Wintergreen, Helichrysum, Vetiver, and Palo Santo. Just a little of this rolled in your hands then massaged on your bitchs’ back will ease her muscles.
Fennel: This is to increase milk production. You can use it two different ways, directly to the teat (well avoiding the nipple area) or two drops under the tongue. Can put the drops in a teaspoon of honey and allow your bitch to lick. I have noticed an increase in milk supply within hours of application. Word of caution, you should never use Fennel for more than 5 consecutive days.
Melrose: If you experience milk duct clogs/mastitis in your bitch you can put a drop or two where you feel the clog and then apply a warm compress to drive the oil in. You can repeat as often as needed. Melrose is a blend containing Rosemary, Melaleuca, Clove, and Niaouli.
Geranium: Occasionally you may find once the umbilical cord falls off, there may be minor bleeding in the area. A drop of Geranium will safely stop any bleeding.
Our Favorite Five EO’s to use for Mastitis Care:
1. Tea Tree
Also known as melaleuca, tea tree oil is one of the best-known antimicrobial, antibacterial, antiseptic and anti-fungal oils that exist in the world. It helps to fight the disease-causing bacteria causing the mastitis. It should be applied topically on the infected area, undiluted, or diluted with a cooling oil like coconut oil if you wish.
2. Lavender
Calming, relaxing and soothing in nature, lavender oil is also highly antibacterial and has cleansing properties that will help get rid of the infection quickly. It can be used in the same way as tea tree oil.
3. Oregano
Highly antibacterial, oregano oil has been researched and found to be more potent than many popular antibiotics prescribed by doctors today. Dilute one drop of oregano oil in 1 tsp of raw honey and allow the dam to lick it off your finger or a spoon, or feed to her in a vegetable capsule 1 – 2 times a day.
4. Basil
Another cooling essential oil that can help draw out the heat and infection. I applied 2 – 3 drops of basil oil diluted in 1 tablespoon of coconut oil and massaged it firmly into the infected lump.
5. Frankincense
A highly spiritual and grounding essential oil, frankincense can help de-stress and relieve tension in dams who are undergoing anxiety, mental strain or general stress. Frankincense can be applied to the infected teat.
*Please note: Be sure to wash off the areas where you have used the oils prior to allowing puppies to nurse!
General Appearance—-Smooth coated, well balanced, of great strength for his size. Muscular, active and agile.
The Staff is an athlete. Everything about him should mark him as such. There should be no exaggeration in his make-up. He needs enough bone/substance; enough muscle; enough strength of limb etc; but not too much of any of these features. He will need strength and vigour, allied to speed and suppleness, with endurance and stamina in abundance. The cloddy, heavy boned, over muscled dog may look impressive but he’ll lack the speed, agility and stamina of the athlete. The lightboned, racy dog will lack strength and power. The one in the middle will get the job done.
Characteristics —Traditionally of indomitable courage and tenacity. Highly intelligent and affectionate, especially with children.
The Staff’s temperament is legendary. His intelligence and willingness to please is taken for granted by his friends and is a source of astonishment to others. He is a pleasure to have around. He loves human company and thrives on it; seems to know just how to behave with the big ones, the small ones, the old ones, the loved ones, the neglected ones. He’ll make you feel special, “read the paper for you”. He knows he’s your best friend. He knows you need him. Not renowned as a guard of property but attack his friends at your peril, especially his small friends. Should not be used/trained as a guard/attack dog. You may have trouble calling him off.
Temperament—Bold, fearless and totally reliable.
But he’s all dog. He’ll play for hours. Take him to the field and his sporting instincts will surface. He loves a romp; he’ll hunt with the best of dogs. And though his past might suggest an aggressive and vicious spirit, this is not the case. He owns the ground he stands on and is never craven. Just socialize him as a puppy with other dogs/pets/animals and he’ll never be a threat to any. Maybe, it’s a confidence born of his past. He has nothing to prove .He knows he’s top dog.
Head and skull —Short, deep through with broad skull. Very pronounced cheek muscles, distinct stop, short foreface and black nose.
The Staff’s head should have a skull/muzzle ratio of 2:1. So the foreface/muzzle is short in relation to the rest of the head, shorter in this respect than most terriers’. The stop, the step down from the top of the skull to the top of the muzzle is quite marked. Not as deep as in other breeds with this type (Bracycephalic) of headpiece eg; Boxer, Bullmastiff. But it is definite and will affect the setting and shape of the eyes and overall expression. The Staff’s skull should be balanced for equal width and depth and be well padded with muscle, with well-developed cheek ”bumps”. These are the muscles which close the jaw and enable your Stafford to grip with power and endurance. His foreface, muzzle and jaw, should be equally balanced for width and depth and continue the strength of his head as a whole. A foreface which falls off below his eyes makes for a ”foxy” head. But too much bone will make him coarse and take away from the quality of the head. Enough is the key word. His nose is black. His nostrils wide/open. He’ll need to breathe through them at times so little, pinched nostrils will not suffice. Remember, he’s an athlete so all his parts will have to function well.
Eyes — Dark preferred but may bear some relation to coat colour. Round, of medium size and set to look straight ahead. Eye rims dark.
To complete the expression the darker the eye the better in any colour of dog and the light coloured eye in the dark coated dog are not clever. If the stop is correct, the eye size and shape should be as well. If the stop is shallow, eye shape will be almond and the expression will suffer. If the stop is exaggerated, the eyes will be overly large and prominent, again moving from the correct expression. Eye rims should be dark but will bear a relationship to coat colour and pigmentation. The colour, whether of the eye or rim, is a cosmetic feature and has no effect on function. Should be judged as such.
Ears —Rose or half pricked, not large or heavy. Full, drop or pricked ears highly undesirable.
The Staffords’ ears should be quite small and light. Pulled forward the tip should not extend beyond the corner of the eye. They are preferably rose shaped and fold back close to the back of the skull. Remember his past. Big, heavy, untidy (badly carried) ears present an easy grip for his opponent and packed with tiny blood vessels bleed profusely. (Ever wonder why ears were cropped?)
Mouth —Lips tight and clean. Jaws strong, teeth large with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws.
Heavy, loose lips have no functional value and, again, present a grip for an opponent and a possible point of injury for the dog himself. Lippy dogs in action, trying to get a quick grip, often fang themselves. Ever seen a lippy lurcher? And they have to get mouth on, a grip, in a split second! Lippiness makes for a coarseness in the foreface. Jaws, as mentioned under HEAD CLAUSE should be strong. Look for fill below the eyes and width in the muzzle. Fault a heavy and prominent lower jaw, often making for an undershot mouth. Fault a weak, receding under jaw often accompanying an overshot mouth. Look for balance in strength between top and bottom jaws. And do not confuse a jaw fault with untidy dentition. Teeth should meet in a scissor bite. The scissor bite is important for all carnivores. This is the nip which the animal uses to cut through the skin/hide of its prey; this is the nip with which the bitch opens the sack to release the newborn pup. The incisors are precision instruments, the close scissor bite their means of operation. The canines are the striking/gripping/catching tools. They puncture and hold. The molars are the crushing tools. They break-up and grind the food for swallowing. So that all these teeth can exert maximum pressure they must be set square to the jaws; they must be in line to support each other. Teeth, which are not set square or in line, will sustain more damage in normal wear and tear and would have sustained massive damage in the dog pit. Ask anyone with working terriers about the importance of good mouths. Look for big, strong, well-placed teeth in your Stafford.
Neck —Muscular, rather short, clean in outline gradually widening towards shoulders.
Compared to humans who balance their heads above their shoulders, dogs carry their heads in front of their shoulders. This construction requires a strong neck, stronger in relation to the weight of the headpiece. Nature provides them with a strong neck.
Dogs, as carnivores/preyanimals, hunt and catch their food. When they strike their prey, they strike downwards, hit with the head/foreface/upper canines and grip by closing the under-jaw. The strength of the strike comes from the muscular neck which delivers the hammer blow. The dog kills by shaking its prey and crushing with molars. Too short/stuffy a neck means the dog must shake with its whole forequarters to get the job done. Too long/elegant a neck is weak. So look for a rather short neck; I take this to mean of moderate length. I think that length from nose-tip to occiput could be a guide to a proper neck length. (If you’ve ever had the misfortune to witness a fight between two dogs, you’ll know that the shaker did most damage. And you’ll know that getting the opponents off the floor and stopping the shaking was the key to the separation.) The power for any head action comes from the dog’s neck.
Forequarters —Legs straight and wellboned, set rather wide apart, showing no weakness at the pasterns, from which feet turn out a little. Shoulders well laid back with no looseness at the elbow.
The front legs/forequarters carry the whole front, the heaviest part, of the dog so they need to be wellpositioned, continuing the line from the shoulder to the feet, providing the optimum base of support. Not outside the body of the dog and not too close below the body. The body of the dog is tied to the shoulder blades by the big muscle groups of the neck, shoulders and chest. It isn’t propped, it is slung. Well laid-back shoulder blades allow for a longer attachment, make it easier for these muscles to carry the weight and provide a smooth meeting of the neck and upper back, the cervical and thoracic vertebrae. Upright shoulders make for a stuffy neck and a dip behind the withers. Length in the shoulder blade and upper-arm allows for longer, more athletic muscle as opposed to the short, bunchy, heavier muscle which short limbs tend to carry. The heavy muscled dog may look awesome but the athlete will get the job done with less puffing and panting. The pastern, the main joint above the front feet, equivalent to your wrist, needs to have a little give. With the other joints of the front limb it will cushion the impact when the foot hits the ground loaded with the weight of the dog. So, while this joint should be strong and able, it should break the line of the leg. Staffords’ feet turn out slightly from pastern to sole. There are those who say that this was to give the dog a broader/more stable base of support in the pit, making it more difficult for his opponent to unbalance him. I think it’s just a little peculiarity of the breed. Refer to “wide front” in next points.
Body —Close coupled, with level topline, wide front, deep brisket, well-sprung ribs; muscular and well defined.
The coupling for the majority of folk is taken to mean the loin or the part of the back from the last rib to the hip joint. Close coupled, therefore, means short in the loin. A short loin is a strong loin but lacks the flexibility of a longer loin. This flexibility was vital to a dog in the pit. It permitted him to turn with speed and power and it transferred the pushing/wrestling drive from the big muscles of the hips and thighs to the business end. So how short is long or how long is short? As with the neck, stuffiness here is a fault. This flexibility in loin is a virtue in the brood bitch .She needs to be able to get round with ease to perform her matronly duties. The older, “less delicately reared” would say, It’s a poor bitch can’t lick her own arse!
The level topline, so much a feature of posed dogs, so often lost on the move. Topline, again, is taken as the back from behind the withers to the top of the croup. We consider level to mean like a tabletop. But the spine of a dog, that structure which determines the line of his back is not level to this degree. It may be level for the length of the thoracic spine, the ribcage, but it will rise slightly over the lumbar spine, the loin. The spine for the length of the loin is the only bone, hard tissue, in that part of the body. A slight rise, as in a humpback bridge would seem to make sense here and strengthen this part of the assembly. So while we don’t want camels, we do need to be as suspicious of the absolutely level topline as we are of the not so level one. Look at other working breeds, agile and athletic ones, and maybe we won’t be just as hung up on this particular clause.
Widefront. Not sure why. I believe that the Stafford with his bulldog ancestry would always have been a wider fronted dog than other terriers.
They, with their earth dog ancestry, would have needed to be quite narrow to get to ground and follow their vocation. So I tend to think that this clause may have been a comparative one. I’ve heard it said that the Stafford needed this wide front to give him stability in the pit. A lot of the time in the pit, at least one and often both front feet are off the floor. And if he needs width the dog can place his feet to get it. It’s been said that the space between the front feet, the brisket and the ground should be a square. So in a 16-inch dog, whose brisket comes to his elbow, the width between the inside of his elbows should be 8 inches. (Withers to elbow = elbow to floor.) I certainly would not be happy with a wider front than this and as a choice would prefer the shape between the legs to be slightly rectangular with the short end on the floor.
Deep brisket. The brisket should be no deeper than the point of the elbow.
The dog does not need any more depth. Look at all the working/hound breeds. Indeed more than this is an exaggeration and an impediment. It, quite simply, is extra weight for the dog to carry. It will take away from his ability to perform.
Well-sprung ribs. I was always led to believe that spring of rib referred to the way in which the rib connected to the spine and their capacity for expansion. Ribs were required to spring to the side before they curved down to form the chest wall. This gave the dog the room he needed across his back and gave ample curvature to the ribs as they reached to the sternum. The front ribs, flatter than those behind, gave room for the elbows to be tucked under the shoulders with room to move freely below the dog. The rear ribs have more curve. There is a temptation to admire Staffords with massively barreled ribcages and great depth of brisket in the belief that this provides more room for heart and lungs, so increases stamina and endurance. But it isn’t the size of these organs but their efficiency which is important and bulky bodies are only more weight for the dog to carry. The Stafford should, like all performance dogs be well ribbed back. This is where the room and protection for his vital organs is found. So we are looking for dogs whose ribcage is carried back below, before the tuck-up begins. His forechest should be evident and fill the space between and in front of his shoulder joints but not overly so. We don’t want pigeon chests.
Hindquarters —Well muscled, hocks well let down with stifles well bent. Legs parallel when viewed from behind.
Wellmuscled. This is where the propulsive power comes from. Staffords should have strong, powerful thighs. Not just for movement but in his earlier existence he had to drive his adversary back, to unbalance him and to bully him. Like it or not it was a vital feature.
Hocks well let down. The hock joint, your ankle, should, in the Stafford, be close to the ground, to his pads and toes. This, quite simply, gives stability to his hind limb in all its actions.
Stifles well bent. Equivalent to your knee. In a comfortably freestanding dog the stifle joint should be sufficiently bent to place the hind foot just behind a vertical line from hip to tip of toes. Easy to pose a dog thus. So try to find him off duty. (Having moved a dog in the show ring he should be allowed to come to a comfortable stop unaided, unposed. Then you’ll see the bend of stifle.) The ability of the stifle, and indeed hock, joints to open and close is an essential element to movement. This is how the dog uses his legs to drive and reach, to change the length of the limb to clear the ground and swing through its movement. See under MOVEMENT CLAUSE.
Legs parallel when viewed from behind. Hocks, from joints to feet should be parallel. Again, beware the posed dog. Well-constructed Staffords should stand four square without any assistance.
Feet —Well padded, strong and of medium size. Nails black in solid coloured dogs.
Well padded. Thick, spongy pads are a requisite for comfortable, hardwearing feet. Splayed feet with thin pads have short duration and break down easily. Get a shoe with a good sole.
Strong. There should be a natural clenching in the joints of the dog’s toes which makes for compact feet. Feet will be sized in proportion to the size of the dog, to the bone in the dog. Small feet on a heavy-boned leg are as wrong as big feet on a lightly boned specimen. Look for balance.
Nails black in solid coloured dogs. Easy but cosmetic.
Tail —Medium length, lowset, tapering to a point and carried rather low. Should not curl much and may be likened to an old-fashioned pump handle.
Medium length. Should reach the hock.
Lowset. Origin is just off the level of the topline.
Tapering to a point. Easy. All tails are thus.
Carried rather low. Stafford tails should curve from origin to hang down.
Should not curl much and may be likened to an old-fashioned pumphandle. For the younger generation, who never took the bucket to the pump, the handle hung down and flicked back at the bottom. The Stafford at ease carried his tail in this position, even on the move. Alerted, he lifted it in response to an excitement/threat which might require an answer. But he did not carry his tail erect. The gay tails, seen so often today, can be an indication of a fault in construction/movement, a shallow pelvis and stilted rear action.
Gait and movement —
Free, powerful and agile with economy of effort. Legs parallel when viewed from front or rear. Discernible drive from hind legs.
The first clause is easy. He should flow across the ground. The second is more problematic. A moving dog, of any breed, will not move with legs parallel. It was a rough guide. Old-timers (even older old-timers) used say that terriers should move like a train. Most terrier breeds are relatively narrow-chested so convergence to a centre line may be difficult to spot and they may appear to move parallel, like a train. But this is simply not true. Efficient and balanced movement requires that the feet converge to minimize any lateral displacement and keep the centre of gravity of the dog above and within the base of support or as close as possible to this.
Otherwise the dog will roll to each side with each step, a waste of effort, inefficient and cumbersome. So look for this convergence in the line of the leg from shoulder to foot, from hip to foot. It will be easier to see at faster pace. Judges should require dogs to move at a fast trot.
Discernible drive from the rear legs. Viewed from the rear, the only measure of drive we have is in the pads of the feet. Moving away and really pushing/driving off his rear feet the dog will show us his pads. From the side we look for the dog to leave his foot well behind him when he drives and to close the space underneath when he reaches forward. His rear foot should replace his front foot just as it lifts to reach forward. It should not set down two inches behind. Your dog moves by moving/swinging his limbs at the joints of origin ie; the shoulders and hips. To clear the ground with each stride he shortens these limbs by slightly closing the joints; in his rear the stifle and hock joints and in his front the shoulder and pastern joints His feet should be picked up enough to clear the ground. His topline should hold its shape and flow forward without any bounce or up-down movement. Doing this he will cover the ground with ease and economy. These are the indications of sound movement. These are what we should look for and reward. Possible aberrations. If he is showing pads but moving off-line, crabbing, he is trying to match good drive behind to poor reach in front. If he seems to be prancing at the front, may be he is attempting to compensate/synchronise poor front movement with good rear movement. If he is snatching and running at the back, may be he is trying to catch up, to match poor drive at the back to good reach at the front. The other possible problem area for movement could be the result of breeders breeding for even shorter backs. Remember the ”close coupled” clause. It is easy to focus so much on any particular attribute that we exaggerate it to faulty proportions. So consider the possibility of a back so short that it leaves no room for drive and reach below. Then we need to straighten the stifle and stilt the movement to get any balance/coordination. (I suggest you take a look at the Smooth Fox Terriers. But don’t mention my name.) And, take heed, this can be done. We get short stuffy dogs, which move and show smartly for clever handlers, but do not move well, as in efficiently and effectively.
Your dog will move in the ring at a trot. This gait means that the front left leg and the rear right leg move together, then the front right and the rear left. But they do not move simultaneously. The front foot moves just a split second before the rear. This precise timing is programmed by nature in every well-coordinated dog. It enables the dog to move smoothly without tripping over his own feet. All dogs, like all humans, are not necessarily well coordinated. Some are clumsy, awkward. Left foot doesn’t know what the right foot is doing. Used to be referred to as neuro-motor morons. You know the dancer who was always stood on your toes!
Coat —
Smooth, short and close.
Coat texture should be soft and velvety, a little bit longer and more profuse in dogs kenneled outside but smooth and close to the body.
Easy to care. Good food, exercise and a warm bed. Only needs an occasional bath and the sponge down when he’s been in the ”sheugh”.
Colour—Red, fawn, white, black or blue, or any of these colours with white. Any shade of brindle or any shade of brindle with white. Black and tan or liver colour highly undesirable.
No such thing as a good horse being a bad colour. This is a matter for personal taste and colour in a Stafford is purely cosmetic/aesthetic. The dominant colour in the breed is brindle; the black brindle is now predominant though there are still quality dogs of all colours albeit with much smaller gene pools. The tiger brindle carries the genes for the full colour spectrum, others tend to breed colour predictably. Breeding reds/pieds/fawns constantly will dilute coat colour and if at the same time strong pigmentation is retained, black hairs will appear in the coat to produce a grizzle or smut. The black and tan is the extreme of this. So an occasional cross to a brindle is needed to prevent the appearance of these undesirables. I have a notion that liver is really a weakness in colour and that black/tan is so dominant, that were it allowed, it would quickly swamp the breed. But check this stuff out!
Size—Desirable height at withers 35.5 – 40.5cms (14-16ins), these heights being related to weights.
Weight: Dogs: 12.7 – 17kgs (28-38lbs);
Bitches: 11-15.4kgs (24-34lbs).
This should be straightforward stuff but causes a lot of division amongst enthusiasts. We need to remember that the standard is a guide, so none of these heights or weights are cut-off points. We will get quality dogs outside these marks and we should be always willing to appreciate and reward quality. The folks who drew up the standard were describing what, in their opinion, was the ideal Stafford. I can only say that “Virtus in medio stat”. The ideal is in the middle and to keep it there we have to use dogs on either side of it, in this case above and below. If we use the ideal as the top limit then we will breed down; if we use it as the bottom-line then we will breed up. And we have a breed which could quiet easily split into two types, a terrier type and a bulldog type.
We need to always look for the bull and terrier type.
Faults —Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
This is the pit for the faultfinding specialists; the dentists, the chiropodists, the optometrists etc. We need to be able to look at the whole dog and see his virtues. We should view all dogs from a distance, assess them against the standard and judge them as examples of their breeds before we move close enough to get caught up in the details and cosmetics. I do recall reading a statement by the late Raymond Oppenheimer, of Bull Terrier fame, about one of his breed. He said something to the effect,” He was as full of faults as hell of fire but the best Bull Terrier I’ve ever seen.” We need to be appreciative in our judging, not mean and smallminded. The standard is a guideline open to interpretation, not etched in stone. To have digested it and memorized it word for word, but be unable to apply it sensibly, is to have wasted time and will make no contribution to the future of any breed. If we can’t identify the virtues what will we build on? The quality of present Staffords is the stepping-stone to the future.
Note —Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
If your number concept is weak you may have to use your fingers.
At some point in a breeders lifetime they will experience losses. They will mate a bitch who misses conception, lose puppies, lose shows, lose friendships, lose your oldies, certainly lose money and sometimes – may even lose faith.
Loss is just part and parcel of the experience. The way one deals with loss and how one is prepared for loss is what is so important. Continue reading “Lessons Learned”
