Waiting for a puppy?

So here you are waiting for a puppy from the breeder you have developed a relationship with after a lengthy search. You both have agreed that your expectations and theirs are a good match. You have passed the breeders detailed interviews, home checks, reference checks and enjoyed many lengthy conversations over the last few months or years possibly. Now what?

Now is the time for you, and your family, to continue the education you began when you first researched the breed you were seeking. Does your breeder offer mentoring and education materials? If so take advantage of these! I cannot stress enough that NOW is the time to immerse yourselves in any and all education materials offered to you.

Now is also the time to be proactive – reach out to your breeder and talk about questions, concerns you may have. Now is the time for all adults to speak to the breeder. Now is the time to discuss your childrens puppy experience. If they have none or only a little – educate your children now! Do NOT wait to bring a puppy home to teach your kids the correct and safe way to interact with puppies and adult dogs. Now is also not the time for bravado and machismo to take over. Your kids do not know everything you think they know. Explain to them the importance of being safe, gentle and kind to dogs. No screaming, sudden wild movements, no loud noises, no jerking, poking, pulling. Sit down to hold puppies. Be gentle with puppies. Teach your kids to be patient. A little good parenting now will pay off later. Your breeder is more concerned about the puppies experiences than your kids, trust me on that.

For our new owners, we have this incredibly detailed website chock full of articles, blog posts, book lists, puppy raising protocols, nutritional and natural rearing  information, essential oils,  health, exercise  and training advice and more! Read about Breed Specific Legislation and Breed Bans. They exist and are very real. We give everyone a copy of the suggested exercise schedule written by Puppy Culture. We also upload 100’s of files pertaining to the breed, the litter, health testing documents, history and advice for our buyers to print, download and read on a FB group they have the link to. We have The Stafford Knot , rescue fund raiser pages and SBT Mentor websites and FB pages. These are excellent places to learn more about the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. We post a book list we suggest new owners to read from. We make suggestions on safe breed appropriate toys and warnings about those that can be ingested causing obstructions or broken teeth. We are here to answer any and all questions for the life of your dog so please – take advantage of this!

We suggest they join other groups on FB as well. Examples of these groups include a debates page where you can follow along with many topics pertaining to the breed from fellow owners in America. There is a page for Stafford Rescue and Re-homing which all SBT owners need to participate in. We need help with transport, breed ID and foster care. There are fun pages such as Stafford Ink where you can show off your SBT related tattoos.

Do it! Now. Now, before you take home a puppy.

We ask that all buyers purchase and watch Puppy Culture – you can live stream so its super convenient to watch anytime you have free time. You will want to follow along each week with your puppies PC experiences and by watching the videos it will make more sense to you and make it easy to continue when you bring home your new puppy. We ask buyers to go online and read past issues of The Stafford Knot online magazine to see photos and read about the history of this breed. The more you know now, the easier it will be later. I cannot repeat this advice strongly or often enough.

Never. Stop. Learning.

http://www.thestaffordknot.com

http://www.sbtmentor.com

https://issuu.com/thestaffordknot

 

Singleton and Puppy Culture

If you follow this blog then you already know about a ‘litter’ we had eight months ago where two puppies were born and we lost one at 36 hours old. We were faced with the new challenges of raising a single male puppy using all the protocols – Avidog, ENS, Puppy Culture, etc.

Aside from all the struggles of the first two weeks keeping this precious baby boy alive we had to really stay on track with all the daily interactions required in order to raise a well socialized, confident and happy puppy who had no siblings to interact with. In past blogs we wrote about the details, such as enjoying interactions with friends litters of the same age, the struggles with scheduling simple actions such as when to sleep, nurse, train, etc. A singleton has no reason to eat when you want to feed – no competition for the teat or the food – loading a clicker was a real challenge – in fact this puppy has no sense of urgency whatsoever when it comes to food or meal time.

We survived all the challenges of the first 6-8 months at home and now ‘Smithy’ was ready for his new home on the opposite coast. We traveled with him in the RV up to Illinois where he had many firsts. The travel was new. The dog show was new.  (he even picked up a reserve winners dog to a 5 point major!) The entire experience was new. Since we were also traveling with our other dogs, one of whom is pregnant, it was all new for him. He no longer could simply run out the door to potty, but instead was leash walked. Thankfully we had attached a potty command and this was no problem. Riding in the RV was no problem. Walking into a show building, no problem. Seeing the dock pool, no problem. In fact, walking into a show ring was no problem for him either! He was a wiggly puppy at first and I allowed him to have fun in the ring. He stood like a champ by the last day.

We met his new owner towards the end of the ten day adventure. It was love at first sight for everyone. There may, or may not have been goosebumps and tears. This was the perfect match! I try to explain to people who contact us for a puppy to please find your BREEDER and then wait for your PUPPY. This was why. Kristin was like family from the moment we met. She and Smithy were meant for one another. There was no ‘transition’ time. There was no ‘take it slowly’ time. They met. He was her puppy. She was his owner. PERFECT! All the hard work, long hours, love and patience paid off.  According to Kristin Smithy was totally chill the entire adventure westward. Nothing phased him. He rode in hotel elevators, he saw new places, heard new sounds, smelled new smells, met new people – nothing at all was a problem for this young dog.

Below are photos of their very long drive home from Illinois to Oregon. We cannot wait to see them again in the Spring. Smithy truly IS This Charming Man!

Got hot spots?

 

Homeopathic treatments for hot spots

A hot spot is a localized area of skin inflammation and infection due to bacteria. Hot spots can appear anywhere but are most commonly found on the neck, chest or flank. Although they can pop up at any time of year, they are more common in the summer months, especially for dogs who are swimming in ponds. Hot spots can grow at an incredibly fast rate – you may notice a small spot in the morning and return from work to a horrid, pus filled mess the size of your fist.

In healthy dogs, hot spots can respond very quickly to the right homeopathic remedy without the need for shaving it down or applying salves and creams. Acute prescribing can be quite easy for even the most novice of homeopaths as the remedy you choose will depend on the appearance of the hot spot and the behavior or your dog.

Below is a short list of some homeopathic remedies you might want to consider. This list is by no means complete, but for most dogs, one of these remedies will be a good fit.

Natural Remedies For Dogs Hot Spots

Apis

Because Apis is made from the honey bee, think of a bee sting.  Hot spots requiring Apis will be shiny and swollen with a red or white appearance.  It will also be quite sensitive to touch.

Belladonna

Hot spots that require Belladonna will appear and grow almost instantly and the skin will be bright red, hot and relatively dry.  The dog will appear restless and irritated and will move away from heat.

Graphites

Graphites is an excellent skin remedy and will be necessary if there is a sticky discharge that appears like honey.  These dogs can tend toward excess weight and the itch and discharge will be worse with warmth.  The surrounding skin and coat may feel greasy and the hot spot will have a cracked appearance.

Mercurius

These hot spots will also have a yellow or even greenish discharge with a yellow scab.  There may also be hair loss and bleeding around the lesion.  These dogs will also want to move away from heat.

Rhus tox

Like a rash from poison ivy, the hot spot that requires Rhus tox will be red and very itchy with a pimpled rash-like appearance. There will be swelling and the hot spot will be hardened.  These dogs will prefer warm and will feel better when out moving and walking.

Dosage: Most of these remedies will work well with the common 30C potency. Give once and evaluate the results in your dog. Remedies will work quickly with acute, fast moving issues, so you should see a change in the hot spot within an hour or a little more. If you see improvement, then wait – do not redose. Watch the hot spot and if it appears to worsen, then give your dog another dose. If you do not see changes, try another remedy.

You shouldn’t need a topical treatment if you choose the right remedy. If you want to use a topical treatment, clean the area and apply a calendula solution. Sprays will work better than creams as the hot spot will heal quicker if it is allowed to dry.

Reposted from a puppy buyer/friend

The following two posts were written by my good friend and puppy owner – I am sharing because I feel its worthy of being on this blog. So often I get calls and emails from people wanting to buy a Stafford puppy but they haven’t done any research – all they can think about is – I WANT A PUPPY. I WANT A PUPPY NOW. HERE IS MY LENGTHY LIST OF CRITERIA AND THIS IS WHAT I WILL PAY YOU.  Uhm…..no.

In todays throwaway world all too often people buy puppies for all the wrong reasons. Its not fair to the dog, not fair to you and not fair to those of us doing rescue who end up cleaning up the mess. Not every breed is right for every person. Not every breeder produces the same quality puppies.

Pay attention to breeders listed on a parent club breeder referral list because basically any member of the club with the money to pay for the listing can advertise. There is no screening but when speaking with potential puppy buyers I found out that it is implied they have been screened, approved and wholeheartedly a better choice. This is not always true. The same holds true for the AKC Marketplace for the same reasons. Reach out with phone calls/emails and make that effort when searching for a breeder and get to know one another. Decide together if you make a good team. For me, I like the personal interaction.

This is her post:
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“Reposting for those of you looking for a puppy”

I bought a dog from a breeder, just as many of you have, or will do. I thought I’d share the process that I went through with you.

My decision on the breed was made many years ago, way before I was ready to get one. I researched. I read everything that I could find- some of it accurate, some of it fluff (there is always someone writing fluff, trying to sell their puppies. Pretty much, if a breeder tells you that their breed has NO negative traits, they’re not telling you everything.). I went out to the parent club’s website (every AKC breed has a parent club) and found that they have a breeder referral list. I decided to start there. (Be careful- some breed clubs don’t have any criteria for who’s on their list. If they breed, they’re there – you will still have to weed through the list for a responsible breeder). I visited and bookmarked a TON of websites. Unfortunately for the average person, all breeder’s websites look a like. They all have pictures of the dogs, and they all spew some dog show jargon that sounds impressive to the untrained ear. I’m not 100% sure how to teach you how to spot the real deal, as recently I have seen some breeder websites that I really had to dig to determine if they were responsible breeders, or some shyster just breeding dogs. A couple of big tells are if the breeder is talking as if they show their dogs, there should be REAL dog show pictures – with ribbons, and judges, and a little plaque that says the date and what they’ve won (or performance pictures will be captioned with the title earned). Don’t believe it just because it’s on the Internet – go to the AKC site and search the dogs and see if they really have earned those wins. For anyone reading this who says that they don’t care if the breeder shows dogs or not, please see my previous facebook rant, I mean, informational post:  (see her other post below)  (this Is also where I discuss the price of dogs, and what you get for that price). If a breeder says their dogs have health clearances, check them out! OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) has a website where all you need is the dog’s name to search. Take the time and do the search! I have done TONS of searches for people, only to learn that the dog I searched doesn’t really have any clearances! If a breeder talks about their dog’s temperaments, how do they know? If the dogs live in a kennel situation, they don’t know unless their doing something with the dogs (dog shows, obedience, agility, etc). How do they know what the dogs are like in real life situations – going for walks in a neighborhood, reaction to the vacuum cleaner, do they spook because the ceiling fan is on, what are they like when company comes over, etc. Manners are taught, behavior is GENETIC. And look for the ‘over done’ website – the website that is geared just towards selling puppies.

I saw some wonderfuI websites, with some beautiful dogs, who had some big wins. There were a few who met my criteria – I was looking for a performance dog, with good structure, a solid temperament, and who’s parents were health tested. I am picking a member of my family – I am not going to cut corners. In the end, I had my eye on one breeder in particular. To me, it was a pretty easy choice based on the one thing that made her different from the rest – she is a raw feeding, all natural breeder. To me, this was important. For you, it may not be – everyone has different goals and priorities. I sent her an email. I sent a detailed introduction of who I am, what I could offer one of her puppies, and what kind of life he would have with me. I must have made an impression, because I received a reply and a phone call. I was interviewed. I was asked a lot of questions, and had to fill out a very detailed application. I was happy to do it. It meant that she is being responsible about where her dogs go, and what kind of life they would have. In the end, after some more questions from both sides, we agreed that we were a good match.

That was 10 months before I got my puppy. If you want a puppy the day you start looking, or for Christmas, or for someone’s birthday, you’re doing it wrong. First, you chose the breeder, then you look at the dogs she is going to breed, and if you’re happy with that, you wait. I have had people wait as long as 2 years to get one of my puppies. Breeders can’t make their girls go into season.

Over the months, I kept in touch with the breeder. I didn’t constantly send her emails asking if her girl has been bred – I knew she would let me know when she was ready. With the internet, keeping in touch was easy. Over the months, she would get to know me better, and I would get to know more about her dogs and her dog ethics (she does rescue, is anti commercial breeders, is involved in her breed club, etc). The entire time I waited, I was prepared to walk away from the whole thing. As much as I thought that I liked her and her dogs, if something were to come up that I couldn’t compromise on, or made me uncomfortable, I would have started my search for a breeder all over again. I have met many, MANY people who settle on a breeder and even if there are screaming red flags, they will still get a puppy from them. You have to be prepared to walk away all the way up to the moment that you sign the contract (the most common story I hear is that people get to the breeder’s home and find that it is somewhere they feel they need to rescue the puppy from, or they get there and can obviously see that the puppy is timid and will not be the happy, well adjusted dog they had been promised).

And then the call came, the bitch had been bred! And now more waiting. Is she really pregnant? How many puppies will she have? Will there be a male in there for me? I wonder how many other people she has waiting? Are they ahead of me? Even if there is a male, will he have the temperament that I want? And the LEAST important thing was, I wonder what color they will be? You should not chose a dog by the color of his hair! Do I have a personal preference? Of course! Did I get it? Nope. I never have! I have a house full of wonderful dogs and cats, who have amazingly wonderful temperaments, none of which are the colors that I would have chosen if that were my only criteria.

4 puppies were born, 3 were males – things were looking good for me. Now to wait for them to get up on their feet so that structure and temperament could be evaluated.

I consider myself very lucky to have found an exceptional breeder. She met all my basic criteria, and then some. She had people visit the puppies, so strangers wouldn’t stress them. She did Early Neurological Stimulation with the puppies:

http://scholar.google.com/scholar_url…. She followed a mind stimulating, socialization program called Puppy Culture http://www.puppyculture.com/phone/index.html (Avidog has a similar program http://www.avidog.com/). She started their clicker training at 4 weeks old. Do you have any idea how nice it is to have your puppy offer a sit to everyone he meets, from the day you get him, without having had put any work into it??? She took them for trips to parks and other people’s homes. She introduced them to water and tiny little agility equipment (not all the puppies will use those skills, but all of them will benefit from the confidence such things build). She crate trained them, and started the housebreaking process. She laid all the groundwork for a well adjusted, confident dog. You have no idea how important this stuff is until your dog is about 2 years old and you realize that he’s the easiest dog you’ve ever had.

I didn’t get to pick my puppy. Why should I? Even if I spent 2 or 3 hours with the pups, it’s a drop in the bucket compared to the amount of time the breeder spent with them. First, the breeder needed to evaluate them on structure – which are the show dogs, and which are the pets (and pet status can be obtained by something as silly as a crooked tooth, or a mismarking – nothing that a pet home would care about, but is a big deal in the show world), which are the performance dogs, and which are the couch potatoes. A good breeder doesn’t just want to sell their puppies, they want everyone involved to be happy. I hear people talk about their puppy picking them, and while it’s a nice, romantic idea, it is not all that it’s cracked up to be.

I picked him up at 9 weeks. This was a compromise on the breeders part. She normally doesn’t let them go until 10-12 weeks (my puppies don’t leave until they are 10 weeks). The old ‘the younger, the better’ theory has been blown out of the water by research that says ‘no younger than 8 weeks’ (and 8 weeks is pushing it). Puppies who stay with their litter longer are more well adjusted, less bitey, and much more confident. http://www.avidog.com/wp-content/…/2015/01/49-Day-Myth-1.pdf. At 4 weeks old, puppies are just getting stable on their feet, and are starting to interact. At 5 and 6 weeks, they are interacting more, but they do a lot of falling over, so it’s all still very awkward. At 7 and 8 weeks, they are starting to have personalities and they are learning appropriate behavior from each other. At 9 and 10 weeks, they are learning social structure and more appropriate behaviors (like, ‘Ouch! You bit me too hard. I won’t play with you when you do that’). I actually would have preferred to have left him for another week, but I was going to have to travel to get him, and work was making 10 weeks near impossible. We both agreed that since I am a seasoned dog owner, and have multiple other dogs, I would be able to make up for that lost week or 2.

And it doesn’t end there. When you get a dog from a responsible breeder, you get an expert in the breed for the rest of the dog’s life. I have texted and called and asked questions, and I will continue to do so for years to come. Many of my local puppy buyers even have me come with them on major vet visits – I am happy to do it. Although you bought the puppy, and he is all yours, a good breeder will care what happens to him the rest of his life. A good breeder is there for you and her puppy for the dog’s ENTIRE life (including taking that dog back, for any reason, at any time).

Remember, your dog is the only family member you get to choose. Choose wisely.

Feel Free to share!”

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This is her original post topic
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“So, I slept on it… and I still feel the same way… so here it goes…

I have been helping a friend find a puppy. She wants a specific breed, for a specific purpose, with a specific temperament. I have found her several responsible breeders who I think would have puppies that would fit all of her criteria. Then she says to me, “I just want you to know that I am not spending $1,000 on a dog. Not when so many need homes.” And you know, if that was the end of what she said, and she wanted help finding a rescue dog, I would have been all about helping her. But she is still not opposed to buying a puppy… just not one for $1000. So, at first, it didn’t really register what she said, but as I thought about it, I became more and more offended. Because basically what she said to me was that as a responsible breeder, my dogs are not worth any more than Joe-shmoe’s down the block… that all the time, effort, and money that I have put into health testing, temperament testing, training, proving, and selecting my dogs for breeding has no value. I have to say, this really got under my skin. Maybe it’s because I have driven my girls as far as CA to breed to the most perfect stud dog that I could find… or that I just spent over $2000 on progesterone tests, and I still don’t have a litter to show for it… or maybe it’s because I have proven my dog’s over and over again, and it just plain pissed me off that someone doesn’t see the value in that.

So, what do you get for a $1000 puppy? Proven temperament and trainability… mom, dad, grandma, grandpa, and great grand parents for many generations are trained and temperament tested- and they have been to a million dog shows, earning titles to prove it all. Proven health… mom, dad, grandma, grandpa, and great grand parents for many generations have had their hips, elbows, knees, eyes, heart, & thyroid tested, they are clear of all genetic disease that I can possibly know of. They are to breed standard… which may not mean a lot to you, but it should. It’s what keeps a Rottweiler from looking like a Black and Tan Coonhound, or a Bernese Mountain dog. It’s what maintains structure and soundness, and what makes a breed a breed. You also get me. You get a knowledgeable breeder and expert in your breed. You can call me day or night, and even on holidays. I am there for you through all your joys and frustrations, sickness and health. I will do anything I need to do to make sure that owning one of my puppies is the most wonderful experience of your life. You have the peace of mind knowing that no matter what ever happens to you, your dog, your best friend, has a safe place to live out the rest of his life.

So what about that $400 puppy out of the paper? You get a puppy with unknown temperament, health, and type. You get nothing else. You can potentially get a dog genetically predisposed to fears and aggression, a dog with debilitating health issues, a dog who will never be able to fulfill the goals that you have set out for him. And if you ever needed to return that dog (life can sometimes throw you a curve ball), that person will not take your 5 or 8 or 10 year old dog back… you will be stuck putting your dog up for adoption, or euthanizing him.

So, who’s making money? I have never actually figured it out, but I would guess that I lose about $1,000/puppy. I don’t breed dogs to make money. I breed dogs because I love my breed and I believe that there are wonderful people out there who should have the opportunity to own wonderful dogs. The person selling the $400 puppy is making a profit of about $350/puppy. That person breeds purely for profit. Oh, I am sure they love their dogs, and their breed, but not enough to be any benefit to anyone other than themselves.

I guess people don’t really understand value. It is not about the price you pay, but what you are getting for that price. And in the end, if what you are getting for $1000 is not worth anything to you, then by all means, the $400 puppy is a much better value.

I have not told anyone who I am talking about. She is my friend, and I would like to keep it that way, so please do not guess or spread rumors. And please feel free to share if you agree.”