I have noticed an increase in people reaching out for help after buying a puppy and realizing they might not have gotten exactly what they were hoping for. There is a real need for more education on this breed. A number of ‘pop up’ breeders are literally cashing in on the upsurge of popularity in Staffordshire Bull Terriers.
In an effort to educate we are working on marketing ideas to try to reach people BEFORE they purchase a Stafford puppy so we can make sure they are well equipped with all the information they need to make a good purchase from a breeder who will support and mentor them, a breeder who is involved in more than ‘making puppies’, a breeder who does (and can prove) all breed appropriate health testing, a breeder who will take back a dog they have produced for any reason at any time, a breeder who is involved in breed rescue, a breeder who is well educated on the breed – an honest preservation breeder.
You deserve to bring home a puppy who has been enriched and raised in a loving home environment for the first 8-12 weeks of its life. You deserve the correct temperament. You deserve a happy and healthy, well adjusted puppy. A Stafford puppy should be confident, eager to learn and energetic. Whether or not your breeder feeds raw, naturally rears or not – they should be a well respected active member of the Stafford community. Help us help you!
The new marketing campaign will be designed to target regular people looking for a puppy so they have this information in hand! Tell us what you search for when looking online – tell us what you expect to find – tell us your thoughts on what you are finding when searching. Send an email to wavemakerstaffords @gmail.com with the subject: Stafford Search Study so that we can put together a helpful education campaign.
The following is meant to introduce the uninitiated to the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. Because this link is more about the personality of the dog than it is an in-depth dissertation on breeding or training, anyone wishing to pursue either topic should refer to the books and magazines listed under the Club Bibliography Link In This Section (About The Stafford)
Characteristics & Temperament Although individual differences in personality exist, there are some things that you can expect to find in the personality of every Stafford. They are tough, courageous, tenacious, stubborn, curious, people-loving and comfort-loving, protective, intelligent, active, quick and agile, and possess a strong “prey drive”.
They are extremely “oral” youngsters and need a safe alternative to furniture, toys and clothing for their busy jaws. Staffords love to play tug-of-war and to roughhouse, but YOU must set the rules and YOU must be the boss. This is not a difficult task if you begin working with your Stafford when she is a puppy.
Most adult Staffords, particularly bitches, make excellent watchdogs; but in general they are inclined to protect people and not property. Their alert, muscle bound appearance is so striking that it’s easy to forget that they are smaller than most American Pit Bull Terriers. As Steve Eltinge in the book, The Staffordshire Bull Terrier in America says, “When a Stafford shows its teeth in a snarl, it can be frightening. They look tough and can be a positive deterrent to thieves, but because of their natural fondness for people, most Staffords are temperamentally ill-suited for guard or attack-dog training.” As with other members of the Bull and Terrier family, they can be the biggest people lovers in the world!
A Staffordshire Bull Terrier desires, more than anything else, to be with her people. Most adore a car ride, going on hikes and walks, enjoying a romp up the beach, and cozying up (or on) to you when you settle down for an evening of TV or reading.
Whatever the activity, “From the time it awakens in the morning until the quiet of night, a Stafford lives life to the fullest.” (Linda Barker, writing in The Staffordshire Bull Terrier in America, by Steve Eltinge).
Care and Training Staffordshire Bull Terriers are a “natural” dog and generally robust. The short coat of this breed requires little grooming other than an occasional brushing and a bath. The downside of this drip dry coat is that Staffords are susceptible to fleas and ticks. The general remedies to discourage fleas and ticks are recommended, as well as a thorough going-over with a flea comb during the worse months of summer. Staffords covet human attention to the extent that I have seen several of them gather around their “person”, waiting to be combed from head to tail for fleas!
Care of nails, ears, teeth and anal glands are the same as they would be for any other breed (beginning when young and attention on a regular basis).
The Stafford is not a dog that tolerates weather extremes easily. Because of its short coat, it prefers plenty of shade and water on sweltering summer days (a child’s wading pool has been a popular choice in the past; supervised of course). Its Bulldog ancestry and brachycephalic (short-headed or broad-headed) respiratory system can contribute to overheating. Watch carefully to be sure that your Stafford doesn’t become overheated during intense play in the summer; if she appears to be wheezing or gasping for air, find the nearest source of cool – not ice cold – water and soak her to lower her body temperature.
Staffordshire Bull Terriers can boast a number of obedience and dogsport degrees and are “quick studies,” provided the trainer utilizes a positive, creative approach. Staffords are smart with a capital S. Young puppies enrolled in Kindergarten Puppy Training classes can begin to learn good habits and mix with other puppies. In addition to AKC obedience competition, Staffords have been successful Therapy Dogs, Canine Good Citizens, participated in Agility and Flyball Competitions and even “gone to ground” with other terriers!
Staffords are exuberant, impulsive, sometimes bull-headed … and surprisingly sensitive. A trainer must learn to be persistent, patient, and firm. Rome wasn’t built in a day and a great deal of ground may be lost in trying to adhere to the sort of inflexible techniques and rigid time frame advocated by some training books. Basic obedience training (at the very least) is a must for any Bull and Terrier. It helps to maintain control in unexpected situations. Because of their impulsive natures, the other cardinal rule of Bull and Terrier ownership is “always think ahead.” An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! When it comes to strange – and especially aggressive – dogs, few Staffords are complete pacifists. Most will not back down if they are attacked or menaced, and some just don’t get along with strange dogs, period. This is a physically and mentally tenacious breed; be prepared!
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the differences between the American Staffordshire Terrier, a Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Bull Terrier, and an American Pit Bull Terrier?
Some eight or nine varieties of dogs come within the general classification of Bull Breeds. Although all lay claim to the Bulldog as a common ancestor, there are physical differences that make each distinct from the other:
A) Size – The American Staffordshire Terrier (AmStaff) is a much larger, leggier dog – sometimes almost twice the size of a Staffordshire Bull Terrier! The Bull Terrier standard does not include size restrictions and dogs from 35 to 100 pounds have been seen. However, the breed generally weighs in between 40 and 55 pounds, making it larger then the Stafford. Pit Bull Terriers also range widely in size. Many of today’s UKC-registered APBTs are on the smaller side; others, dually registered as American Staffordshire Terriers with the AKC are larger and heavier.
B) Ears – Although it may have natural or cropped ears, the American Staffordshire Terrier is usually exhibited in the United States with cropped ears, as are some Pit Bull Terriers. The ears of the Bull Terrier are naturally erect. Erect (or prick) ears are a serious fault in Staffords, whose ears should be “rose” (like those of an English Bulldog) or half-pricked.
C) Head – The heads of American Staffordshire Terriers, Pit Bulls and Staffordshire Bull Terriers are similar, although the cheek muscles on most Staffords seem to be more pronounced, and the head deeper through. The head of the Bull Terrier is entirely different. When viewed in profile, it resembles an egg turned on its side and is much longer than that of the Stafford. The cheeks of a Bull Terrier are not pronounced.
D) Temperament – All Bull and Terrier breeds have a natural love of people, although that love often does not extend to other members of the canine kingdom outside of the family circle. Many adult AmStaffs project a more serious demeanor; Bull Terriers have a unique and extremely well-developed sense of humor; Staffords may possess the strongest “prey drive” and the superior ability to focus; they are also an “emotional barometer” par excellence, very sensitive to psychic atmosphere in the home. But remember that every individual is different and each of these dogs shares a common ancestry.
How are Staffordshire Bull Terriers with children? The Stafford is known by the affectionate nickname, “The Children’s Nursemaid” or “The Nanny Dog.” Their tolerance of, and affection for, children is well known. That doesn’t mean, however, that it’s a wise idea of put the puppy and child together without supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog and neither should indulge in play that is too rough. Some Staffords – even the males – have a “mothering instinct” and will stick right by the little ones, whether they are puppies or kids. A Stafford, “tough” and not as quick to react to pain or discomfort, is likely to make allowance for the attentions of toddler, finding a refuge only when things become too overwhelming.
Can I keep a Staffordshire Bull Terrier in an Apartment? How much exercise will she require? Staffords can make a home with you anywhere; they are happy as long as they are with you. They are an athletic dog, however, and need more exercise than most dogs. Bursting with energy, they need vigorous exercise every day! A long, brisk walk on leash (or harness – a useful alternative for some) will give you both a workout. Staffords love the heady freedom of being allowed off lead for a run, hike or romp and it’s delightful to watch them. Of course, it’s a good idea to make sure that they’ll come back when you call them, first.
Are Staffords a noisy breed? Staffords, in general, are not mindless and persistent barkers. They may bark or “talk” while playing (you will be amazed by the range of arggling, yodeling, grunting, moaning and monkey noises, etc.!), or to alert you of a visitor. However, they are “quick studies” and if you have another dog in residence and THAT dog is a barker, your Stafford will probably pick it up.
They have such a nice, short coat. Do they shed? In a word: “Yes!” . . . at least once a year. But because Staffords have a “hair” coat, rather than a multi-layer “fur” coat, they produce less dander and the shedding is minimal compared to what you may expect from a Golden Retriever or German Shepherd Dog. The close, short, glossy, “teflon” coat loses dirt easily, dries almost instantly, and does not absorb odor. Staffords are truly “wash and wear!”
What About Keeping a Stafford Outside? Staffords are not temperamentally or physically suited to spending long periods of time out-of-doors. They need to be with their family and should be house dogs. Given the opportunity, they will convince you that they belong in the bed at night and will be most comfortable on the couch or in the car . . . wherever you may be. If you are not comfortable with this kind of intense camaraderie, do NOT buy a Stafford. Stafford-owners-to-be should have a fenced yard where their pet can play in safety. Remember that Staffords are terriers and can dig like the dickens. They can turn your garden or their yard into a minefield and have been known to go under or over a fence. Secure the bottom of the fence with an “L” of chicken wire. If your dog is the climbing type, a very tall fence or a “shelf” around the top will discourage him. To thwart thieves or those who might tease your Stafford, do not leave him out in the yard for long periods; supervise his outside time and take the opportunity to play with him. Remember that Staffords can overheat if they over-exert themselves on a hot day; conversely, their short coat offers little warmth in the winter months when they stop moving. IMPORTANT: Invisible fencing systems are not an appropriate alternative for Bull and Terrier breeds. The Stafford’s high pain threshold means that — if sufficiently provoked — he may cross the boundary with minimal discomfort. Once out, he must brave the boundary’s shock to re-enter the yard. Invisible fencing does not prevent strange dogs from invading his yard and harassing him . . . a potentially dangerous situation.
Do they like to swim? Staffords can be divided into three categories when it comes to water — 1) They will do anything to avoid it, 2) They like to wade and wallow, 3) They enjoy full-body immersion and will swim, dive, and retrieve. BUT no matter which approach your Stafford may take to water, NO STAFFORD is really very seaworthy or buoyant. The percentage of body mass that is made up of muscle practically guarantees that they must work very hard to stay afloat. Therefore, a Stafford should NEVER be left alone near a filled swimming pool. More than one of these guys has paid with his life after falling in, struggling to remain afloat, and then tiring and sinking before anyone noticed.
Can I keep a Staffordshire Bull Terrier with another dog or with a cat? Staffords, like members of any other breed, are individuals. While some may live peacefully with other animals, some will not. Puppies brought up with cats and other dogs generally do well. If bringing an older Staffordshire Bull Terrier into your home, first introduce the dogs away from the house in a neutral area. It should be easier to bring a Stafford into your home than bringing a strange dog into the home of a Stafford. Encounters should be supervised and the dogs observed to determine how a hierarchy develops.
Should I consider a male or a female? Both will offer much love and affection. Females tend to be better watchdogs; males tend to be larger. If you already have a dog in your home, your choice is simpler: If you have a male, buy a Stafford female. If you have a female, buy a Stafford male. This combination is the best, especially in a two-Stafford household. People sometimes ask about the wisdom of bringing two Stafford puppies home at the same time and most would advise against it. Each puppy deserves individual attention and is less likely to get it as a “twin.” Puppies are a lot of work! With two puppies to keep each other company, the temptation is often to let them amuse each other. Sometimes your pups will decide to bond with each other and place you second on the totem pole. You don’t want that! No matter which sex you select, spay or neuter if you have decided not to breed or exhibit your Stafford.
I have a busy schedule and when I’m home I like to work undisturbed. By all means, DO NOT BUY A STAFFORD! These dogs crave attention, companionship, and are tireless love sponges. This can annoy those who are used to a dog that amuses itself, is content to sit in its basket, prefers the companionship of another dog, or will settle for a quick occasional pat. Ignoring a Stafford or shutting it away from you will only make your pet an unhappy, frustrated nuisance.
I’m looking for a guard dog . . . will a Stafford fill the bill? Staffords were not developed as watchdogs. Clare Lee, writing in The Pet Owner’s Guide to the Staffordshire Bull Terrier notes that, “he rarely barks, greets all your visitors and may well let them walk off with the family silver.” If you desire a dog that will be suspicious of all comers and actively repel them, then choose one of the working breeds designed for that purpose. Staffords may guard a car and will most definitely protect family members – especially the weaker members – but they rarely ‘guard’ the home.
What sorts of toys are safe to give my Stafford? There are no such things as “indestructible dog toys” for Bull and Terrier breeds. But some have tried these: Boomer Balls, Wolf-sized Nylabones, large-sized Kongs, or some of the Puzzle Cubes. Anything else might be chewed up, swallowed or destroyed in short order.
SO . . . DO YOU STILL THINK YOU’D LIKE A STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIER? It is recommended that you read as much as you can, go to local dog local shows in your area where you can see them, and contact one of the breeders listed in the SBTCA Breeders Directory to ask questions and arrange to see dogs. And above all, be sure that everyone in your household wants this energetic and loving addition. A Stafford could easily be dependent upon you for the next 16 years!
If you live with dogs for long enough eventually you will encounter that ‘C’ word at some point. Even when you feed the very best diet, care for the dogs in the very best possible way, exercising their minds and bodies and really engaging the dog into their veteran years – cancer will sometimes enter the picture. When/if it does – be prepared.
We are quite lucky that our oldest Stafford is still enjoying every day with us at 15 1/2 years old. Her appetite is terrific. She still barks and wants to be with us. She enjoys her 2 daily (very slow and short) walks. Her bloodwork is good. Her heart is strong. he still has a spark in her eyes. She is on a small plethora of supplements including Tumericle, Love Bugs, Origin and Petandim. Today I ordered Yunnan Baiyao capsules to start her on as well. She eats a raw diet with lots of organ meat, muscle and ground bone. She recently began getting anti-inflammatory drugs twice daily for her painful arthritis in her feet, shoulders, hips and spine. She seems happy and content.
Today she was diagnosed with Canine splenic hemangiosarcoma but we do not think it has ruptured or is bleeding in her abdomen – yet. We took the news well with the understanding that this type of cancer is one of the ‘bad boys’ and will eventually be why we will have to make a decision for her…..but not today.
Located adjacent to the outside portion of the stomach, the spleen is responsible for the storage of red blood cells. When the spleen is affected by a tumor such as hemangiosarcoma, the risk of abdominal bleeding and subsequent death is likely. Unfortunately, dogs suffering a hemangiosarcoma are highly susceptible to the acute effects of a splenic rupture. Surgery to remove spleen will remove the entire tumor. However, surgery is somewhat complex and given her age its simply not an option we feel is doable.
The most unfortunate fact about hemangiosarcoma is the disease metastasizes rapidly. Unfortunately, the best prognosis is usually only another two to three months, even with the best of treatment and best of care. Our options are very few, and hemangiosarcoma proves 100% fatal. We plan to spend the next few months giving her whatever she needs, enriching her daily life with food games and puzzles, short walks, ear scratches and lots of love. Today, Pnut is happy. Today we celebrate her life. Tomorrow is never promised even in the best of situations.
The following article is from Dogs Naturally Magazine. We did not write this but we feel the information is very important.
What’s the one thing you can do to make your dog live longer or be healthier?
Would you feed a different food? Would you give your dog more exercised attention? What would you change?
Over the years, I’ve made many lifestyle changes for my dogs. And some of these changes have had a massive impact on their health. So, in the spirit of sharing, I’m going to reveal the top five changes that have had the biggest impact on my dogs’ health.
PS: #5 is, by far, the most important, but read them all …
5 Steps To Improve Your Dog’s Health In One Year
1. Feed A Raw Diet
One of the best ways to immediately improve your dog’s health is to toss that bag of kibble in the trash. Start feeding him a fresh, raw diet. There’s really nothing magical about what’s in the raw diet … what’s important is what’s not in it …
Kibble needs to contain at least 30% starchy carbohydrates to hold it together. Some kibbles contain as much as 60% starch (and kibble manufacturers aren’t required to say how much is in the food).
Why is starch a problem? There are a few important reasons …
Mycotoxins
Starch is a breeding ground for molds, which produce a by-product called mycotoxin. Mycotoxin can contaminate crops before they’re harvested or after your dog’s food is made. The most common sources are corn, barley, wheat, beets, peanuts and cottonseed.
Research shows that the core vaccines your dog gets as a puppy protect him for at least 7 to 15 years.
Mycotoxins are extremely harmful to your dog. One mycotoxin in particular, aflatoxin, is the most potent cancer-causing compound found in nature.
Other Dangers
Carbohydrates are also the preferred fuel for the harmful bacteria that live in your dog’s gut. And worse, cancer cells. Many are genetically modified. They’re sprayed with pesticides (which also harm your dog’s gut bacteria). And, most importantly, your dog has no nutritional need for carbohydrates!
2. Replace Fish Oils With Healthier Oils
Fats are a very important part of your dog’s diet. Fats play several different roles, including: …
providing energy
forming the membranes of all the body’s cells
helping the body absorb fat soluble vitamins
controlling important hormones
A good way to make sure your dog is getting enough fat (and enough of the right types of fat) in his diet is with oils.
This may have you reaching for the fish oil, but fish oils are a bad idea. I know, this seems radical to you, but here’s why .…
Fish Oils Can Cause Disease And Inflammation
Fish oils are heated and processed foods. And that heating and processing damages the fats and causes oxidation or rancidity. Even oxygen can cause oxidation. Even if you buy a really high-quality fish oil, every time you open the bottle, it becomes more and more rancid.
Oxidized fats break down and create oxygen-containing molecules called free radicals. Both MDA and free radicals cause premature aging and disease. This is because they damage proteins, DNA and other important cellular structures.
This damage is called oxidative stress. It leads to health problems, including gene mutations and cancer, and inflammatory conditions.
Fish Oil Contains Toxins
Although fish oils are loaded with healthy fats, fat is where fish and other animals store toxins. Unfortunately, the oceans are becoming more and more polluted by the minute. Heavy metals like arsenic, lead and mercury end up in fish oil. These toxins can cause nervous system disorders, cancers, liver and kidney damage and skin problems.
And don’t think your dog’s fish oil is safe. Independent lab analysis found that even tested fish oils still contained dangerous PCBs.
Fish Oil Kills The Ocean
Menhaden fish is one of the most sought-after fish for omega-3 fats – and it’s commonly used for pet foods. Menhaden fish are important because they eat algae blooms. This keeps the ocean waters clean and full of oxygen.
But it’s estimated that fishermen take half a billion menhaden from our oceans every year. Now the oceans are developing dead zones – areas with a lack of oxygen. The fertilizers used to make our foods run off into the oceans and create these algae blooms. And without the menhaden fish, these algae blooms are killing our oceans.
Switch to phytoplankton. Phytoplankton is also an excellent source of Omega-3 essential fatty acids. It also has important trace minerals, antioxidants and other nutrients. Phytoplankton is absorbed by the body as soon as it gets in your dog’s mouth. This means it delivers key nutrients without your dog having to digest it first. Learn more about feeding phytoplankton, including what to buy and how much to give.
Sardines (fresh or canned) are also a good option.
PHYTOPLANKTON
Phyto Synergy is complete nutrition in a small package. Rich in omega-3 fats and minerals, phytoplankton is a healthy alternative to fish oils.
3. Feed The Gut (Not The Dog)
Bacteria that live in your dog’s gut form 80% of his immune system. These friendly bacteria produce your dog’s vitamins, help him digest food and more.
But these friendly bugs can easily be damaged by some foods. For example, starchy carbs feed the enemies and crowd out the friendlies. Antibiotics, poor diet, radiation and even aging can also affect the gut bacteria. You need to help your dog’s gut replace the friendly bacteria. Here’s how …
Feed Probiotics
You can boost the number of good bacteria in your dog’s gut by adding a probiotic supplement to your dog’s diet. You can also give probiotic foods such as fermented vegetables, raw goat milk or kefir.
If you buy a probiotic supplement for dogs, follow the dosing directions. If you buy one for humans, assume the directions are for a 150 lb human and adjust for your dog’s weight.
You can also add these probiotic foods to your dog’s regular food or give as a snack.
Fermented vegetables:
Up to 15 pounds – 1 tsp a day
16 – 30 pounds – 2 tsp a day
30 – 60 pounds – 3 tsp a day
Every additional 30 pounds, add 1 tsp
Raw goat milk – 2 oz per day for every 20 lbs of body weight.
Kefir – give ¼ cup per 25 lbs daily.
Fish oils are heated and processed foods. And that heating and processing damages the fats and causes oxidation or rancidity.
One thing to remember with probiotics is that you need to introduce them slowly. If your dog is new to probiotics, they can cause a die-off of the harmful bacteria. This can cause gas, loose stools and stomach rumblings. So just go a bit slow if your dog has a history of digestive upset.
Probiotics need food too, and that’s the role of prebiotics. They support the healthy probiotic bacteria.
It’s easy to add these too. Bananas are good in moderation (they contain a lot of sugar). Green leafy vegetables and apples are also great sources of prebiotics. And you don’t even have to worry about how much you give.
Garlic is also great, in moderation. Fresh organic garlic is best. Give up to 1 tsp for every 30 lbs of your dog’s weight per day.
4. Replace Dewormers With Herbs
For most dog owners, tapeworms, whipworms or other parasites can mean a trip to the vet. It’s great that you care about your dog, but …
Conventional chemical dewormers contain really harmful ingredients that can have dangerous side effects. Here are some of the most common:
Fenbendazole – can cause vomiting, lethargy, weight loss, diarrhea, inflammation, even death
Pyrantel – can cause vomiting, weight loss, depression, even death
Praziquantel – can cause lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea, depression, even death
Most of the common dewormers contain these ingredients along with other nasty drugs. This makes them even riskier. So skip the chemicals and opt for herbs.
Herbs For Worms
Diatomaceous Earth (DE). DE can reduce the number of worms in your dog. Just make sure it’s food grade DE, never pool grade. Feed small dogs a teaspoon per day and dogs over 55 pounds up to a tablespoon per day. Make sure it’s well mixed in his food as inhaling DE can irritate your dog’s lungs.
Oregon Grape. Oregon grape is an anti-parasitic, so it’s a perfect natural dewormer. Give it as a tincture, using 12 drops per 20 pounds. Don’t give this herb to dogs with liver disease or to pregnant dogs.
Chamomile. Chamomile is great for preventing and getting rid of roundworms and whipworms. In glycerin tincture form, give 0.25 ml to 50 ml per 20 lbs of body weight twice daily.
For more stubborn cases, try:
Black Walnut. Black walnut is a very effective natural dewormer. But it can be harsh on your dog’s system, so try the more gentle solutions first. The strong ingredients in black walnut can cause vomiting, diarrhea and gastritis. It’s best to use it in consultation with a holistic vet.
Wormwood. Wormwood is similar to black walnut. It should only be used when other options fail. Don’t give it to dogs who suffer from seizures, kidney problems or liver disease or dogs who are pregnant or lactating. Also like black walnut, it’s best to use it only after consulting with your holistic veterinarian.
Foods For Deworming
Along with herbs, there are several different foods that you can give your dog to both prevent and get rid of worms. Remember that a healthy gut is unattractive to worms, so a raw food diet is a really good start in preventing worms.
Fermented vegetables. Sauerkraut, kimchi or carrots are good choices. Work up to 1 to 3 tsp per day per 20 lbs of body weight with his food.
Pumpkin seeds. These are one of the safest and most effective ways to treat worms. Just grind up the seeds and give ¼ tsp per 10 lbs of your dog’s weight in his food.
Pineapple and papaya. Both are full of enzymes that help fight worms. Give 1 tsp per 10 lbs of your dog’s body weight per day as a snack or with his food.
Grated carrots, watercress, fennel, cucumber. All are great ways to help your dog fight worms. Add 1 tsp per 10 lbs of body weight per day to your dog’s food.
5. Avoid All Unnecessary Vaccines
Here’s an important tip … most vaccines your dog gets are unnecessary!
Over-vaccination costs you more than just money … it can seriously harm your dog. Vaccine reactions are more common than you think and they’re well documented. Reactions can range from minor (lethargy) to moderate (chronic allergies), to severe (death).
And there’s actually no need to put your dog’s health at risk …
Mycotoxins are extremely harmful to your dog. One mycotoxin in particular, aflatoxin, is the most potent cancer-causing compound found in nature.
Research shows that the core vaccines your dog gets as a puppy protect him for at least 7 to 15 years. That means he’s covered for most, or probably all, of his life after his puppy vaccination. It also means that anything more than those first puppy shots is over-vaccination.
Even though your vet wants you to vaccinate every 1-3 years, there’s no research showing it’s necessary. Nearly every dog who’s vaccinated at or after 16 weeks of age is good for life. So the next time your vet tells you it’s time for your dog’s regular vaccination, ask her for the research. Or, better yet …
Dr Schultz’ original research on the duration of immunity is available online. Read it here.
If you’re worried about skipping this year, you can check to see if he’s protected beforevaccinating. Ask your vet for a titer. A titer is a blood test that measures the level of protective antibodies your dog has.
AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association) vaccine guidelines say a positive titer can replace vaccination for the core vaccines. So if your vet presses you to vaccinate, you can refer her to these guidelines. Don’t just give in and vaccinate, your dog’s life might rely on that decision!
So, what about non-core vaccines like bordetella, lyme or leptospirosis?
Well, they’re unnecessary too. What’s worse, they often don’t work and carry some of the most dangerous side effects.
Even rabies, which is required by law, is only required every three years in all US states and most Canadian provinces.
So, before you make an appointment for your dog’s vaccines, think about how they might affect his health. Remember, nobody can force you to vaccinate your dog. Stick to your guns and don’t let your vet guilt you into changing your mind. You’ve made your decision for a very good reason.
Get your dog’s health back on track with these five simple changes. They’ll seriously improve his health and reduce his risk of disease. They did for my dogs. ?
On the recommended reading page here on our website we begin by stating “Never stop learning” and we follow our own advice! Recently, because of the friendship with one of our puppy buyers I had the opportunity to take a course in raw pet food nutrition. The course is an online one offered by Dana Scott of Dogs Naturally Magazine.
We have been feeding natural species appropriate diets to our pets for about fifteen years now and we have tried many combinations and formulas over the years. We update our nutrition page every now and again and we know people reference it. That page gets the second most number of hits on this website.
So back to this course – its been a while since I took a class with this much math and science! Remember in math class when you asked – will I ever use this knowledge in real life? Well, as it turns out – yes – yes I will use that math! Dana packs a ton of information into each module. She gives detailed information regarding her views on a correct primordial diet. She backs up her view with downloads of references along with course notes.
I learned a LOT taking this course. In fact, I also changed my viewpoint regarding a few things I thought I had correct. I now have a handy chart, links to online charts and I can calculate the exact percentages and food combinations to feed each pet – if I needed to. I mean, don’t get me wrong – the information is valuable in case I get into a debate with a non believer, in case I am asked advice by a newbie, if I run across a pet with particular dietary needs – yes, now not only can I know what to feed but I can also back it up with WHY.
Knowing me I won’t be quite specific or exact but I WILL and have changed the routine and combinations in my own pets meals. I also switch supplements from what I had been using to new products which are friendlier to not just my pets but also to the environment. Instead of talking forever here I wanted to say the NUTRITION page is now updated to reflect some of the knowledge I picked up in this course. Take a look and see what you think. Dana took great pains in backing up this information so I am willing to give it a try. Its not far from what we already were doing – just mainly tweaking the fats/ratios/sources and reintroducing Phytoplankton and green nutrition.
If you regularly follow this blog and if you have read the website then you already know how important I feel it is to remain with your pets during feeding times. Watch them carefully not only to make sure they do not steal each others food, have a snarky moment with another or in the worst case – your dogs food becomes lodged in your dogs esophagus. If you are not present to monitor these situations you could end up with a very bad event, including loss of life.
Today while I was monitoring lunchtime one of our girls gulped her food and a large half frozen turkey gizzard became lodged in her airway. She was unable to force the food back up on her own. I quickly realized she was in distress and I intervened. I first attempted to reach inside her mouth and pull the food out myself but I was unable as her tongue had already begun to swell. I then performed Heimlich on her which efficiently produced the offending gizzard which I quickly grabbed to prevent her from grabbing it first.
As you might imagine my heart was racing and it would have been easy to panic but I remained calm so that she wouldn’t panic. I remembered my training and did what was needed to save her. Meanwhile it seemed like it took forever and my mind was playing all the horrible scenarios despite my feeling in control. I was lucky. She was lucky.
Afterwards I gave her a massage using YL DiGize on her belly and a blend of Lavender, Jade Lemon, Sage and Rosemary in a massage on her back and limbs. I diffused P&C (mostly for myself) and we all relaxed for about an hour while I watched her carefully for any issues or trouble she might experience. Thankfully she is totally ok.
I have decided to remove turkey gizzards (even when frozen) from their diets – we already no longer feed chicken necks and only duck heads when completely frozen.
If you do not know how to perform Heimlich on your pets PLEASE learn how! There are many videos available on You Tube that you should watch and learn.
In the days prior to Facebook we had Bullbreeds Online. Before that Yahoo groups. Prior to that there was Compuserve chat rooms. Even before that, before the internet, people actually called on the telephone to speak to one another. The phones usually were attached to walls or at least a base unit was. Those who did rescue could have ‘telephone tree’ calls to arrange assistance to the dogs, the breeders, the owners. People actually SPOKE, in real works, out loud or sometimes even in person. HORRORS! You mean people actually looked one another in the eye and had conversations? Yes, my young readers. This is how it was ‘in the old days’ before FB.
When you have to look a person in the eye to speak it makes it more difficult to tell lies. Don’t get me wrong – there are those who are especially talented in this area who can still do this. Well seasoned at bending the truth, some people can make the world sound like just about anything they desire. Sometimes people lie for the sport of lying and sometimes they are ashamed of their actions and guilt makes them lie. Sometimes they feel no shame, and lie because its what they feel is expected of them. Lies simply flow easily out of their mouths any time they speak.
In dogs, here is the problem with being dishonest. There is always somebody paying attention who knows you are not truthful. Today’s blog entry is about breeders who routinely tell lies and think they get away with it. I want to begin by telling you that I have never in my life been associated with so many wonderful people who are passionate about a hobby they spend 24/7 living/breathing/enjoying. In contrast to that, I also have never met so many cold hearted fake egotistical sociopaths either. How can these opposing groups continue in harmony doing the same hobby? Well, my theory is that many of the passionate happy positive people aren’t aware of the other type – mainly because why would you seek that out? Sometimes it is best/easier to ignore those miserable, cold hearted, selfish, controlling, shit stirrers. Sometimes that’s all you can do. Today I am blogging because I am sick to death of those types and I feel strongly they are why breeders and dog show folk have such a negative reputation with the rest of the population and also why the few doing purebreed rescue get so burned out and disgusted. The loudest people get the attention. The angry loud few are what people remember most. And on top of that, when a person who normally is NOT like that gets fed up and becomes angry, loud and attention seeking – that’s what they will be remembered for as well. Thats a shame. What should be remembered – what SHOULD be spoken about are the others – those who ruin it for everyone. It’s those people who make us ALL look bad. I can totally understand why so many people, especially in rescue, HATE breeders. I get that!
Here is what I know as someone who has been devoted to the Staffordshire Bull Terrier in both rescue, re-home, fundraising, volunteer work, breeding, mentoring and educating – people tell me things. I listen. Now I will speak.
I know of a breeder who left a dog she bred knowingly in a kill shelter.
I know of a breeder who has had dogs they bred returned to them and chose to euthanized rather than take the time to train/socialize/rehome the dogs.
I know of a breeder who euthanized a dog that was returned and then lied and told people it was placed in a wonderful home.
I know of this same breeder who has done this routinely.
I know of breeders who import so many dogs then sell them on like one might buy shoes.
I know of breeders who are pyramid sales type breeders – you buy a puppy and sign a contract stating the Stafford must be shown (maybe even by them, maybe for a handling fee), bred from and puppies given back to the breeder and that then you must carry on in the same manner…and on and on and on.
I know of breeders who would just as well breed on the 1st heat just as easily as taking 7 litters from a bitch.
I know of breeders whose dogs live in kennel runs on abandoned properties not where anyone lives and the dogs are visited once daily for a scoop of kibble and some water.
I know breeders who routinely keep non refundable deposits no matter why the puppy didn’t go to that home – even when its the breeder who turns the buyers down.
I know a breeder who makes their buyers use their stud dogs and charge the stud fees anyway.
I know a breeder who charged the breeder of their stud dog a stud fee even after being given free Staffords from the same breeder in the past.
I know breeders who lie about health testing.
I know breeders who lie about puppy enrichment protocols they claim to use but don’t.
I know breeders who care more about ribbons, specialty wins or how many champions they have bred than they care about the lives those dogs lead.
I know breeders who think they are the center of the universe and that all others are below them and must respect anything they say no matter how absurd their words are.
Sadly, I also know breeders who are hoarders and get in over their heads and cannot find a way out but are not able to ask for help.
I know breeders who lack so much confidence that they need a pat on the back for anything they say or do in order to feel okay and accepted.
I know breeders who collect semen like some collect coupons.
I know breeders who collect dogs like some collect coupons.
I know breeders who pay their bills by selling puppies but wouldn’t ever admit that they need the money and the puppies are how they earn it.
I know breeders whose actual self worth is based upon dog show wins.
I know breeders whose puppies are born and raised in stalls or basements, mostly unattended.
I know some breeders who may read this list and not see themselves on it.
I know a lot of things and I also know that for the most part, nobody really cares. Knowing all these things makes me sad if I think about them. In today’s world of having all your ‘friends’ made by a click of a button on FB, telling lies seems to be much easier. After all, who would ever know?
This is a video showing the first steps to teaching leash walking in heel position. The puppies are 9.5 weeks old. I am about a week behind where I normally wish to be at this age but we have been very busy with work thankfully so catching up as I can. This is a Puppy Culture technique from the workbook Chapters 8-9-10. Thank you to Jodie B. for the idea of using the long cream cheese spoon trick instead of treats. It works much more easily for me too. All the puppies did so well.
Sure, there’s a lot to criticize here – handler error – but instead focus on what’s being done correctly and effectively and see how each puppy is focusing a little more with each distraction. We didn’t video the first session without a collar and using an adult dog in heel position and having the puppy follow along. This 2nd session used a collar first, then the leash but notice I haven’t yet picked it up. That comes tomorrow. Keeping each training session very short – watching each puppy to see how his attention span is to determine the length. Always using positive only in my voice inflection and tone, plus loads of praise and the clicker . . . . . and of course yummy cream cheese which is something they only get for the more difficult of training sessions.
whelping box set up 2 weeks in advance. This shows three generations.
Day 40
Day 53
Comparing Nealie and Bay on same day. Nealie had 6, Bay had 4 with 3 surviving (grand dam and grand daughter)
Swimming on Day 54. We allow simple exercising up to due date as long as its not overdone.
Day 56
Day 57 keeping watch
Day 58 – she helped me with lighting for a photoshoot I had
Day 59 – can clearly see expecting 4 puppies of good size
Day 60
Day 60 still out in the field playing
Day 61
Day 62
Overnight on day 63 – stage 1 labor has begun
1st pup very stuck, car delivery
bone broth made from local grass fed organically raised cows
Young Living oils, eggs/broth and other items in whelping room
Three healthy boy pups with mama on day 1
day 1 finally trying to rest
bone broth and scrambled egg
Day 3 things are looking up
Boy #1 at birth – 11.7oz
Boy from last litter on day 3 – 6oz
Puppy Culture workbook
Puppy Culture
There are times I question why I decided to breed dogs.
This week is one of those times. If you follow this blog then you already know about our last litter – it was bittersweet, exhausting, expensive, educational and fulfilling all at once. Multiply those emotions and facts for this past few days and you will understand my feelings a little better. I have included some interesting (to me) photos above from this litter experience. If you think all breeders are alike then you must not follow this blog or you live under a rock. What I show/do/describe/experience doesn’t make me better/worse than other breeders. I write about what I experience mostly for my own sanity, but also in the hopes that readers can learn a little bit – about breeding, about Staffords and about me. I also hope it educates them on the ‘ART OF PUPPY BUYING’ and everything that can, and should be a part of it.
Above you will see how we take photos of each bitch and he progression in her pregnancy and we can compare her to generations before her. We keep detailed notes from the moment she is born, on each season, each mating and throughout her pregnancy, whelping experience and raising the puppies. It doesn’t stop there but this blog today is mostly about this particular breeding experience.
We knew the semen we used was of good quality and we knew the bitch was healthy and young. The veterinary clinic we use is one of the best reproductive clinics in the country with two board certified Theriogenologists on staff. We did all health testing, timing, driving, sparing no expense – we did a surgical AI using frozen semen shipped to us from Italy. It was of very good quality upon thaw. The bitch conceived and progressed as expected without incident. We fed an appropriate diet, supplemented as directed and kept her in shape, not over feeding. Check ups went well, ultrasound showed 6-7 fetuses, all normal. We knew she had resorbed some at the x-ray and saw 4 good sized normal looking lined up puppies waiting to be born days later. Stage one began as expected and progressed normally. I move into the whelping room with each bitch approximately two weeks prior to due dates. I like to get them accustomed to the room. We use a guest room so she can be away from the other dogs in the home, in a dark quiet space but not too far from my husband in our room. The night before her due date (based upon progesterone, LH, ovulation) I slept on the floor beside the whelping box carefully monitoring her as she progressed. I take notes and photos along her journey as well as using Young Living oils to diffuse and massage.
I wont post the actual whelping photos here because for me thats personal for my experience and comparisons for each whelping. I will tell you that with each litter I gain experience and education that I never knew I lacked. In past blogs about the last litter you read we learned to tube feed, give oxygen and FFP and sub q newborns. With this litter I learned about stuck puppies (how to get them delivered and also how sometimes you just can’t), new (to me) resuscitation methods (including but not limited to accordion method, DeeLee catheters and CPR).
I also learned that sometimes the vet you choose to join you on this journey can be so invaluable! I always loved and trusted Dr Ana and she has made puppies from nothing for us – she is fantastic and words cannot describe how much respect I have for her. This time we worked with her colleague Dr. Bob and wow did we connect! He is another veterinarian whom I hold in admiration and have a tremendous amount of respect for as well. I consider myself quite lucky to have developed a good working relationship with both of these talented and kind doctors. I also learned that my local emergency clinic can be amazing! We have used them in the past with mixed results but there is one Dr there we have worked with a few times now who was a HUGE part of this delivery, Dr Houghton. Our fourth and final puppy was stuck and our bitch was suffering dystocia. I knew something wasn’t right with the puppy and that I would not be able to free her. Dr. Houghton was kind, understanding and helped me through the tears of losing the one bitch in this litter as she removed her from the birth canal. The puppy was stillborn. She understood how we did not get a bitch last litter, lost one of the two puppies last time and had three boys this time, the first one being stuck himself. She spoke with Dr. Bob (who was on a day off I need to add and who answered his phone at 5am anyway) and together we made sure our bitch was safe and would be ok. She was our main priority.
We took everyone in the next day and Dr. Bob assessed all was well – we did sub Q for everyone and added Arnica 6c and more probiotic. With another 12 hours of constant monitoring and care today on day 3 we are doing well. The three handsome boys are gaining weight, Bay is being an amazing mama ad finally getting the sleep she desperately needs. I am still in the whelping room (as I type I can hear her snores in the box next to the bed) and I will remain here for the next two weeks.
Our wait list consisted of extremely patient people who have been waiting through three litters now and two families who already purchased puppies from us. All wanted girls.
Why did I decide to become a breeder? If you could hear the snores and squeaks I am listening to right now you would totally understand.
I have been known to repeat the phrase “Never stop learning” and I follow that advice myself. Recently I watched an online seminar that I was unable to attend in person. In the end I think watching it online was more valuable as I can go back and rewatch whatever sections I need to get more information from anytime I wish. I strongly recommend that anyone who breeds or raises dogs always be on the lookout for education to further your knowledge and experiences. The following is a link where you may purchase the seminar if interested. Its far beyond worth the cost IMO.
This is all veterinary & breeding related information as opposed to PC which is about raising, socializing and behavior.
A trio of speakers – 6 topics – invaluable knowledge. Not only are these speakers veterinarians, they also specialize in reproduction. From conception to puppies, it’s the information you need in order to breed successfully.
Kirk Esmond, DVM covers two topics. First he delves into the many things that COULD go wrong with your canine after whelping. Then covers the topic of conception. His lectures are informative, thorough, and sometimes humorous. This is a seven part series. Some of the topics covered in parts 1-5 are: Retained Placenta, Metritis, Pyometra, Uterine Prolapse, Subinvolution of Placental sites, Mastitis, Agalactia, Galactostasis, Eclampsia, and Postpartum Behavior. Parts 6 & 7 are about conception: Proper ovulation timing, semen type and quality, and breeding methodology.
Legal Beagles discusses all the ins and outs of the legalities of ownership, sperm sales, puppy sales and much much more. Handle with Care goes over a plethora of information regarding the top 10 things to improve neonatal and pediatric outcomes. The top 10 things may not sound like much information but you will be blown away with her wealth of knowledge!
Marty Greer DVM, JD is one smart gal. Not only is she a veterinarian she is also a lawyer. Hang on to your hats!! The information come at you at 100 miles per hour. Her book is a must have for anyone with puppies in their life. It is entitled Canine Reproduction and Neonatology by Marthina L. Greer
Dr. Beckie Williams has two topics: Reproduction Jewels and The Semen Chronicles. Reproduction Jewels includes many topics. She provides informative tidbits galore with wit and wisdom. Some of the topics are: questions to ask yourself before breeding, testing before breeding, breeding methods, pregnancy, delivery timing and whelping facts, formulas, and life saving equipment. The title of the second topic pretty much says it all. All things semen: from collection methods and equipment to shipment, freezing, and thawing.
Also shown are two live TCI’s (Trans Cervical Inseminations) and one collection.
